Where to start after such a big weekend. Dive right in I reckon!
GOLD!
Shauna Coxsey won her first gold medal, the first GB female gold medal in bouldering. It was an awe inspiring final. I'm not sure how Shauna held it together so calmly afterwards, especially when the national anthem was played. I think she was maybe already starting to focus on next weekend's World Cup!
We were competing in Grindelwald, Switzerland. A stunning town that nestles below the Eiger. The competition field was the biggest ever (although this record will be beaten come next weekend and the Innsbruck round of the 2014 World Cup series).
Matt Cousins entered his first World Cup ever, and came a solid 49th with 2 problems topped. Dave Barrans, a GB veteran on the World Cup scene, just pipped Matt and was close to gaining the tops required to make the semi-finals. However he 'dropped' a further two problems (dropped = close to topping!).
Michaela, Mina and I all came in the top 30 so gain ranking points. Michaela also 'dropped' a top that would have likely seen her into the semi-finals, but left her in 23rd after an appeal by team NED moved her down from 21st. Mina topped an impressive 4 out of the 5 qualification problems in her group to leave her in 21st due to the number of attempts. So close to the top 20 and semi-final.
I topped the same problems as Michaela, with one additional attempt to leave me in 29th. This may be far from my best result on paper, but I'm really pleased with it as, compared to last season, it's a really good start against a big field with depth of talent. It's also only the second time that I've gained points in the first European comp of the season.
I felt more nervous than usual when leaving the UK, but I busied myself with packing. This included neat little parcels of rice and couscous to save buying more than required when away! We stayed in self catering apartments, which is great when preparing for a comp as we can eat what we need to. Much better than excessive restaurant meals (especially as I'm really bad at stopping eating when I've had enough).
Warming up in isolation was not fun. It was initially, but I quickly overheated in the cosy enclosed boulder room we had to warm up in. I went back to the slightly cooler hall, populated by those competitors yet to warm up, and laid down until I felt a more sensible temperature. I didn't think that a return to the boulder room was a good idea for me, so I finished preparing for the competition on a 6ft high, and similar width, free standing board in the hall with one or two moves at a time.
I was just getting my head set for the competition when the lady calling the competitors into 'holding' asked me if it was hard competing with people so much younger than me (the start list has birth years on it)! I laughed and asked her if she thought I was old, before giving a more considered answer. The competition is getting harder, but not due to my age as yet. It's due to the evolution of the sport.
I felt relaxed in holding and was once again surprised and amused to hear one of Rage Against the Machine's more explicit numbers being played full volume, full content. The same tune that was playing when I started climbing in my first ever World Cup in Brno in 2007. What's the chance of that?
I flashed the first block with a nice shoulder move. I didn't realise how important it was for me to do this until after the comp. I was focused for the next problem - running/stepping right on a slab. I couldn't get enough momentum to latch the bonus. I fought on the next two problems, got another bonus and came close to a third on steep terrain that I couldn't quite get into.
The fifth block was a jump to the left, with a big barn door swing and foot plant for the bonus catch. I didn't see the move for a while on my first go, but came close, then took a further two goes to get it. Two locks on small greasy crimps saw me to the top. Sweet.
Doo be doo, I won't do what you tell me. So much has happened since I last heard that song. I find it motivational! I think I've broken the mould a bit, suffered a bit, enjoyed a lot, and it's allowed me to continue to complete.
