World Cups 2011 – Italy, Slovenia, Austria

The first World Cup round took us to Milan, just.  We struggled to find accommodation due to fashion week coinciding with the competition.  We got lucky and found ourselves in the heart of the city, within walking distance of the comp venue, unlike many others who were up to 40km away.  There was so much to see.  Milan is stunning.  The food is also great – I enjoyed some seafood ( and maybe a little bit of ice-cream).

The competition was frustrating for me.  Here’s some photos that look like I made the top, made the dyno, but I didn’t.  I was a fraction off of making each move.  Not a good start to the season.  I did do a few moves I was really pleased with though.

After a slightly shaky start, the Log Dragomer comp in Slovenia was much better.  I climbed well getting a good way on all but one of the problems.  However, I still typically failed to launch into the last moves.  I need to learn how top problems.  I topped one, but I either needed this to be a flash or needed a second top to make the semi-final.  Getting lots of bonuses didn’t help as it’s tops that count first.  I came away feeling confident that I can qualify if I just get it together.  Also, ‘hurrah’, I got points towards my world ranking for being in the top 30.

Slovenia is green, friendly and beautiful.  The competition was very, very well organised and we were looked after from the moment that we stepped out of the baggage hall at the airport.  I recommend a visit.  We went to the top of a tower in the middle of Ljubljana from which reportedly over a third of the country can be seen – mountains in all directions.  Amazing.

The Vienna round of the World Cup (Austria) was a very disappointing comp for me.  I flashed the first problem, then sat around for ages due to a technical fault ahead of me.  I think I lost my concentration or something, as the next two blocs were a nightmare for me.  Towards the end of the 3rd bloc I pulled it together and got my 2nd top on the 6th attempt.  I then couldn’t make a dyno, and fluffed up the last move on a nice thuggish bloc twice that I should have made easily.  Grrr, I slipped into a low place knowing I had been really silly.  I wanted to call time out.

The feeling didn’t last long.  I’m back training hard, as I want to win.  I have goals to get.  Its hard work, but fun trying to get them.

Ben’s Roof (7c+ Raven Tor)

I’m very excited. 

I decided that tonight was a good night to start working Ben’s Roof.  I’d fondled the holds previously.  Keith Sharples had shown me his sequence and I had my usual memory on the beta (forgotten the lot).   I tried ‘Too Hard for Mark Leach’ after warming up on pinches wall for a while.  So the end of the problem was ok. 

After about an hour and a half I’d worked out all the moves, with some helpful suggestions from a strong guy and Pete Jeffery.  The main move that was hit and miss was the toe hook to come round to the end – my foot kept slipping.  I was stunned 3 goes later from the start to be making a second adjustment to the toe hook, making it stick and desperately dragging myself round the corner.  Strong guy (sorry for the lack of name) suggested I get the jug not the crack thankfully and I was grunting to the top.  Happy, happy, happy.

Tea time.

The Great Outdoors

It’s been a hectic period with an amazing stretch of glorious weather in the UK, followed by 5 weekends in 4 destinations in Europe.  I have neglected my blog, opting instead to venture out in to the great unknown (for me) – outdoors.

A normal venture out consists of pottering around in the big outdoor playground climbing everything in sight that looks nice.  No aims to do anything in particular, no working anything, just enjoying the rock.  I’ve previously found that it takes a little time getting used to the rock and you need to take time looking at the view!

I feel that I have had more time recently.  I decided it would be very good for me to start trying some ‘stuff’.  Now I have a little more focus.   Time to pull hard, get out of my comfort zone and work things.  I decided to start actively trying ‘7 and upwards’.  Obviously I’ve mostly started with ‘A’ – I’m nothing if not logical!  But I’ve mainly just tried to do a 7 each day that I’ve been out, picking one near to where we’ve ended up climbing, rather than cherry picking.

It’s fun.  It’s improving my finger strength and technique.  It’s making me stronger.  Here’s the outcome so far this year for the ones that didn’t get away:

Peak District

• Gardoms – Mark’s Roof Left Hand 7a
• Curbar – Trackside 7a
• Raven Tor – Saline Drip 7a flash, Saline Drip sit start 7a+, Weedkiller 7a+ (repeat)

Fontainebleau

• Bois Rond – Bombe Humaine 7a+, Petite Insoutenable 7b (but it might be 6c! don’t quote me on these grades as ‘ the grades they keep a’changing’)
• Canche aux Merciers – La Grande Marche 7a+
• Haute Plaines – Lapin ou Canard 7a
• Franchard Cuisiniere – Bizarre Bizarre 7a, La Voie du Pin assis 6c+/7a (the top out felt hard until I played on some razor crimps then came back to it to crimp the top sloper, and they say the standing start is easier!), Pas Cool 7a
• 95.2 – Indestructible 7a+ (this was a great big rock hug which got my inner thighs!), Le Petite Toit traverse with mantle finish 7a (but guide book is old so may be easier now?)

Why do a lot of the 6’s feel harder in Font?  Here’s a clip of my favourite from the Font trip, Indestructible.

Indestructible 7a+ from Peter Jeffery on Vimeo.