Flapper

Had a really good session at the Matrix today. Rob Napier and Karl Bacon set the last comp routes. They're good. I was working some that I hadn't done in the comp. I topped two more and made considerable advancements on two others. But unfortunately also gained a big flapper on my little finger.

Web cams are awkward to capture images of little fingers in.

Down in Byker...

It's team training and league season. A lot of the wall leagues fall in the same weeks as each other and also on the same weeks as team training so I've been climbing my socks off recently.

The last team training weekend was at the newly opened Climb Newcastle in Byker Village. Andy Earl took us through periodisation of training, campus boarding and fingerboarding. The main features of the weekend for me were two bumper sessions of comp difficulty blocs. A big workout of 15 on the first day and 8 on the second, along with trying the men's blocs and revisiting the blocs from the day before.

There is a really good mix of styles of climbing in the setting. I got a dyno - hurrah. Also some big slopey moves. Some of the fingery problems were so crimpy and small that I was beginning to wonder if this was my strength after all. Lots of grimacing for the top!

Monday's Foundry league felt steep after all this with my arms not really pulling through and my fingers all jelly-like.

Mountain Biking

Hooray, I went mountain biking for the first time in months and months... ow, I'm sure my saddle wasn't that uncomfortable.

Nine of us stayed in a bunk house in North Wales. A recipe for a great weekend. We did the MBR trail at Coed-y-Brenin and the Marin trail at Llanwrst. I'm a bit slow on the uphills (sorry guys) but managed to scare myself on some of the downhills. Big grin, point and shoot stuff screaming like the girl I am when only just missing tree stumps etc.

Cheers to Lex the birthday boy.

European Championships

I had a really relaxing trip to Paris on the train. For some reason it felt a lot less tiresome than flying which was good as I was still a little poorly with a chesty cough. The hotel was in a good place - right next door to a huge supermarket for supplies. Super.

The comp venue was amazing a big glass and grass mound. The qualifier's were held in a side hall populated with hundreds of school children cheering us on. The blocs were pretty easy with only one strong move. Unfortunately, I only managed to flash 3 of the 5 and didn't manage to top the other 2 despite probably doing the hardest moves.

Unusually it was my technique that let me down rather than anything else. I had my knees facing the wrong way both times! I was also climbing a bit slowly so did not have time to rectify my mistakes once I realised what I had to do.

We climbed in two groups. I came 17th in my group, 33rd overall.

The lead, speed and boulder semis and finals were all held in the main omnisport arena. We watched all the finals, and all the bouldering - cheering on Ned who made it to the semis. Well done Ned.

In between we had time for some sight seeing. As you can see we went to all tourist attractions - Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame etc. Also, a very skilled football acrobat balancing on a pillar playing keepie uppie. I was a Paris newbie and thoroughly enjoyed the trip.

Next time I will climb better...

Leaping lurgy

My style of climbing is quite static. I've been working on dynamic moves and have improved but need more practice. At team training we had a simulated competition where although I executed several throws and flicks these were generally the moves I was less successful on during the day.

I planned on having a couple of weeks of leaping practice following the last team training, but the lurgy has got the better of me in the second week. I've been surrounded by people with coughs, colds and sore throats who have broken through my defences. Grr

So I'm stuck at home feeling sorry for myself. Working on nothing but trying to get better ready for the European Championships next week (and answering the odd work query!). There's only so much naff TV I can cope with so I hope I get better soon.

Taking the lead

I'll not be winning any prizes on this front yet. I had a leading session at the Foundry and was pleased with my current stamina and power endurance. There's still plenty of room for improvement, but I was feeling good. It was a mileage session and I didn't get on anything above 7a. I plan to build on this having a lead session or so each month just to keep my hand in.

Sunny South

Hurrah, we found great company in old friends and some lovely weather at the weekend down in Witney near Oxford. It was sunny shorts and t-shirt weather, perfect for a walk along the Thames. We ate lots of good food (sorry to be such gluttons :-0 ) including a substantial amount of salad and quiche with bread from reportedly the 'best bakers'.

On the Sunday we visited the afore mentioned bakers to replenish the bread we had eaten and had a roast beef dinner from the restaurant on the same premises whilst vege Pete went cycling. Mmm roast dinner!