Munich World Cup

Arghh. It was a really good venue, but for me the comp was awful. I was ridiculously tired from the hours I had to do at work before the comp. I couldn't think straight and made two silly mistakes.

1. I decided that it was not a good idea to stand up so that my head was above the top of the wall, even though it would have meant me gaining the top hold of a problem.

2. I missed a gaston.

It is a distinct possibility that this was the difference between making the semis or not. I failed to get points, which is very frustrating as I am capable of so much more. On the up side I am really motivated to get stronger, better, bouncier...

I will have to wait as my body needs time out. It is now time to have a break before training for the 2011 season. I want to just get training, but for now it's best to have some indulgence, catch up with friends and do something other than climb. I might see if my bike wheels still turn.

Sheffield World Cup

It was really strange walking a couple of minutes down the road from my house and telling myself that I was, indeed, about to compete in a World Cup. There were no flights, hotels, trying to find the right food, etc. Just warming up at the Climbing Works on familiar blocs.

On Saturday I felt really good. I topped 4 blocs in 5 goes to qualify in 14th, my best qualification. Also, I hadn't expended much energy as I hadn't had to have too many goes. Despite this, I felt knackered on getting home to rest for the semi-final. I often get some sore muscles, but don't normally feel so physically tired. I thought nothing of it as I was resting as planned, so much so I had a kip.

Sunday started ok. I felt alright as I started to warm up. I felt a bit sluggish as I started to pull harder "almost ready to compete, just getting the muscles firing" I thought.

Then I started the semi-final - I think. I could see what to do, it didn't look too far to the flying saucer from a rolling pop from that 'orrible fin. I didn't pop, roll or gain height, I just climbed onto the fin for some reason and hung there. Arghhh. It continued - pop to the volume from these ok holds, gurn, dangle. Friendly-ish looking lock to the bonus, wilt. Bridge to the bonus, slither.

I came 20th in the World Cup. I should have been pleased, but I was bitterly disappointed because I knew I was capable of so much more. I was capable of getting more than nothing in that round. I wanted to cry but friends, colleagues and acquaintances were congratulating me. Thank you home crowd, for being so good to me.

I've never known such a 'high gravity' day. Time to analyse why and avoid repeats.

Strawberries

Not the boulder problem, real big juicy ones in the garden. So good I had to share.

Eindhoven Shapes and Shadows

Eindhoven World Cup

To carry on a theme - YESSSSS, but grr. Eindhoven has been really good for me again.

I qualified in 19th, making a few mistakes but doing enough to get through. That means a clean slate, having it all to do on another day. It feels good.

In the semi-final, the first time I pulled on I was told to get off again by the judge for not starting correctly. I restarted and topped the bloc. I thought I had started correctly the first time but would have to wait to appeal... I had to concentrate on the blocs to come.

On the second bloc I got the bonus first go, then tried lots of different ways but couldn't progress. The score sheet said bonus in 5 attempts. Grrr. I had to wait... try and leave it and concentrate on the task in hand.

I battled on, unable to progress past the last 2 bonuses. One being a problem to read the bloc, the other just being a beast of a bloc. I finished hot and agitated. I felt a little green on my reading skills and expected the opposition to obliterate me, unlike my usual optimism.

My thoughts were unfounded. The blocs were hard.

I questioned the bonus issue. Apparently it had been decided that you not only had to hold the hold, you had to clearly show you could pull on it. The official said that everyone had been judged the same so the decision would stand.

I appealed the start of bloc one. Clearly what I did in my head was different to what I actually did as my appeal failed. So nearly 11th, but pretty darn happy with 15th.

Yes, but then again no

Hurrah.

Back in the UK, feeling great after some sleep. It's good to get some training in, see the folks, etc.

City Bloc in Leeds had a Bloc Party on Saturday. Great fun, good crowd. 40 qualifier problems followed by 3 lovely fingery final blocs. There was good competition with Naomi Buys defending her title, Zoe Ogden and Helen Shilleto all looking strong.

I won. I really needed a good comp after everything. Hurrah. Lots of energy.

Then came Monday, yippee, no work. A bit of training. Then I woke up in the night with a sore throat. It feels exactly the same as a few weeks ago.

Nooooooo

Rest...

Noooooo

A bit of a sore throat... a lot of a sore throat. Tonsils so swollen that the dangly bit in the middle was being pushed sideways by one of them, and I felt awful. Really really bad timing as I had two days of work left to get everything in order before travelling to my next World Cup comps. Then a whole month dedicated to climbing.

The reality was antibiotics for 10 days and feeling dozy most the time.

It was too late to cancel anything and I stood little chance of getting any refunds, so I rested as much as I could then went for it. After all, you recover quickly on antibiotics don't you?

So the comps - disappointingly I finished in the 30's in both Vienna and Vail.

Vienna: I was reportedly looking strong. I felt strong but tired quickly, not helped by the heat.

1. Flash;
2. Awkward hand swap towards the top of the bloc repeatedly;
3. Wave at the top hold, but too pumped to get it;
4. Wave at the top hold, but too pumped to get it after a few attempts battling with the penultimate hold;
5. Completely pooped.

Vail: I enjoyed it, but failed to get any tops in the comp despite pulling quite a few moves I was really pleased with. I made too many little mistakes, but learnt lots.

• Beautiful;
• Bouldered in Boulder (albeit on plastic at The Spot);
• Competed, campussed, cried;
• Bouldered on REAL ROCK at Der Klettergarden, Redcliff;
• Humming birds, hummers, hot-tubs, 'hugeness', h-awesomeness and high altitude;
• ... and just contacted about cloned credit card, grrr.