Bloc Party 2012

Training last weekend entailed 3 days climbing based training.  Friday was at the Foundry working steep hard sustained problems.  Saturday was at City Bloc for the Bloc Party competition.  Forty qualifier problems put me in second place behind Leah.  I topped 2 out of 3 of the final blocs to stay in second.  I was close to the other final problem, but couldn’t get past a volume to the last hold.  Leah showed me how it was meant to be done afterwards – so much easier when you know how!  I also found that I wasted attempts on one of the blocs choosing to do an easier move that left my feet in the wrong position to progress.  When I committed to the harder move (that went just fine, despite me thinking it may not) I proceeded to top the problem.  It was a valuable training session with endurance, technical, and mental elements worked on.
Sunday afternoon was spent at the Climbing Works attempting the new pink circuit.  It’s good to keep throwing yourself at lots of different problems sometimes, going for the flash each time, rather than working a bloc.  It can help to physically and mentally get moves correct first time.

I spent the beginning of the week preserving what little skin I had left.  I did some pull-up work on the bar and had a rest day.  By Wednesday I had enough skin back to do a power endurance session at the Foundry (although I was almost side-tracked by the new campus board).  I did 5 sets of 5min on/5min off, having little to no rest between attempts during the on time.  I was typically completing 3.5 problems per set on the elites/level 3, but had to slip in a level 2 at the end of the 3rd and 4th set as I was so pumped.  I tried to pick sustained problems, preferably requiring dynamic moves at times, and mixed up the terrain a little but mostly kept it steep.  I feel so much stronger than I did a fortnight ago.

Inspiration turned up on Thursday in the form of a delivery from Boreal.  Thank you so much.  Another pair of Kintaro climbing shoes as they are so good, along with some approach shoes and a pad.  I was bouncing of the walls with excitement to be honest.

Now go away rain.

Back on track

The discomfort around my ribs is slowly subsiding and I’m juggling recovery with competing.  Building back up, but trying not to do too much too soon.  I went back to Raven Tor last Friday to see how I was on familiar problems.  Pinches wall was ok, some moves required for Ben’s Roof need a little more time/work to get back to.  I tried the start of Rattle and Hump (7a+) for the first time in several years and topped it.  It’s good for the head to be making quite quick progress back towards where I left off.

The Rocfest competition at Rockover, Manchester was busy and hotter than hot.  Thirty qualifier problems put me in 3rd place behind Shauna and Leah and ahead of Naomi, Charlotte and Ellie in the final.  I had a ‘cheaty’ (quote Naomi) global therapies massage between the qualifiers and the final, as my left shoulder and right bicep were complaining.  After a slow start in the final, just managing a double dyno and some other leaps, I got into my stride to top the last 2 boulders and retain 3rd place.  I’m pretty happy with this.

A big thank you to Boreal for sponsoring me with super boots.

Innsbruck 2012

Great Britain did well in Innsbruck with Ned, Shauna and Stewart making the finals. Dave and Mina also gained points to place the team 4^th behind Austria, Russia and France. Shauna came nail-bitingly close to winning, but had to settle for 2^nd.

I felt that I climbed quite well, but I got a disappointing result. I slipped off the easy problem once again (sigh). I got lots of bonuses and was apparently one of the closest to topping the only problem that wasn’t topped. The last problem was just my thing, but I took a few goes to get going, then missed the last hold by a fraction with nothing left in the tank. Pete (partner and main critic!) said my left side looked a bit weak throughout, but I just felt a bit short of the mark. I came 38^th. I felt that I didn’t have enough endurance to finish when it mattered on the last problem to put me in the top 30 and contribute to the team result. The usual ‘what ifs’ featured, but they have to be put aside as nothing can be changed now. I’ve reviewed my performance and am trying to learn from my mistakes. I watched the videos of my attempts and I looked tired and weak!

I need to continue working towards full fitness. I console myself by knowing that I was close to doing ok despite everything. I’m good at battling on the hard problems. I’m bad at getting it right first time and finishing problems. Strength is not always physical. I need to work on my mental weaknesses as well. I need to practice decision making whilst too hot and working hard. As I tire, I waste more energy and just blindly pull towards the next hold. I believe I can do it, but sometimes doubt creeps in. Is it possible that I’m scared of top holds?

Thanks to Sander ter Steege of Bouldercentrum Delfts Bleau for the photo.

Vienna 2012

Shauna crushed again to come 4th – so exciting.

Vienna was hot.  A barmy breeze made it bearable.  It was good to get out of the grey dampness and soak up some vitamin D, but the sudden extreme of temperature was a bit of a shock to my battered system.  Luckily there was quite a bit of time to get used to it as we didn’t climb until the evening.  We hung around all day waiting for our turn to climb.  I was hot and dozy entering isolation, where it was comparatively cool and comfortable.

Warm up felt ok, but it turned out that I just wasn’t with it.  My concentration was shot and I made some rum decisions.  The first problem was steep and just my thing.  I got the bonus first go, just, before swinging off.  It took a few goes to get going again.  I felt like I was climbing through treacle both mentally and physically.  I got pumped unusually quickly.  I think I was trying too hard.  I progressed past the bonus and made a silly choice for a hand position on the next hold and fell off due to poor hand/body position having done the crux of the problem.  Arghh.

I recovered, not by, but on the next problem whilst repeatedly going for a double dyno. 

I touched the bonus, but didn’t latch it.  It was the same story for the next two problems.  My score sheet was looking very sorry for itself.  I kept trying the same thing over and over again, even though it wasn’t working.  Why didn’t I try the other things that I thought of?

Hurrah for the final problem.  A flash on the slopey, strong, tension bloc that was very doable, but also very droppable.

It was progress.  I learnt things.  It was a slightly better result than last week, but it didn’t feel like it.

I was tired, had had my fill of garlic at the local Italian restaurant and was ready to get home to my own bed having been away since the middle of the month.

The plan:  get home,  sleep,  recover more, train more, taper, crush!

Rocky Road

I made it to a World Cup, and managed to climb quite well.  It would have been good to get in the top 30, the semis…. but I’m really pleased with what I managed to do – 35th in Slovenia against a very strong and big field of competitors.  Also, I got to see Shauna’s outstanding performance to get on the podium in 2nd (check out her blog).

My new training regime had been going really well.  Unfortunately I caught a bad cold which led to a chest infection and ultimately pleurisy just when I was meant to be adding the finishing touches to my comp preparation.  I was ill for the whole of March and still have discomfort in my chest.  I had hoped to go to the first World Cup in China, but was not up to making a long haul flight, let alone competing.  I was unable to hang from my arms as it hurt too much.  I could not exert myself without having a coughing fit/breathing trouble.  I felt frustrated after so much successful training – I could feel strength ebbing away.

I went to Fontainebleau for a week instead of going to China.  Rest, relaxation, fresh air and building the climbing back up.

I had two very short sessions on plastic between Font and going out to Slovenia.  I wasn’t sure how well I was climbing, but had made it my goal to be back on track for this comp.  I woke up very early on the day of  the qualifiers to find that I had more illness.  I couldn’t believe it.  I had a very upset tummy (I didn’t manage to keep a main meal inside me the whole time I was in Slovenia).  I don’t know whether it was food poisoning or a bug, I just know it was annoying and very bad timing.  I tried to ignore it and relied on energy gel and isotonic drink to get me through the comp.  I topped two problems and touched, but failed to latch, the penultimate hold on two others.  Not too shoddy!

I’m tired, hungry and resting up for Vienna at my mum and dad’s.  Sorry body.  Fingers crossed for the next round.

Christmas Day Climbing

Hmm, there’s been too much text of late in this blog!  So here’s a video.  We went climbing at Cratcliffe on Christmas Day.

Christmas Day at Cratcliffe from Peter Jeffery on Vimeo.

2012 Already

It’s hard to believe that it’s already 2012.  The next comp season is closing in quickly.  I joined a gym back in November with the aim of having a wider variety of training tools available to me.  The change has been fun and inspiring.   Tim Cunnington of Funky Munkey Personal Training has been helping me train.  I’m getting fit and strong.  I’ve completed my conditioning and strength phases and am moving into power.

The team support is expanding.  We now have a sports psychologist, a nutritionist, a chiropractor, a physiotherapist and a sports scientist, management and coaches helping us.  It’s an exciting progression and I can’t thank them all enough for all the voluntary support.