CWIF 2013 – Chongqing - Millau

Not bad at all – really good, then not so good, but overall quite pleased – really disappointing.

What’s going on?

I achieved my best CWIF result to date this year – 5th.  I felt lucky.  My body didn’t feel like my own from the beginning, but I was determined to battle through.  In qualification I felt like I fell short of a lot of problems, in need of more ‘grr’.  This was a sentiment that was shared by many, so I made it through to the semi final mid way up the ranks. 

The overriding memory of the qualification, for me, was running headlong into a wall.  I rolled around on the floor laughing at myself for quite a while, assuming that I had lacked the coordination to achieve a parkour start to a boulder problem.  Annoyingly this wasn’t the full story.  I discovered, on standing up, that I had twisted my ankle on the run up.  Luckily it wasn’t too bad and I could load it as long as I didn’t twist my foot, and it still makes me chuckle that I managed to shoulder barge a wall to the extent that I bounced off it.  These kind of problems are amusing for spectators and climbers wishing to branch out into different things, but will never truly be climbing.  How could they when they are often easier in trainers than climbing shoes?  But then I enjoy sit starts and micro-boulders!

A flash in the semi-final saw me through to the final in 6th place.  The final looked like the final was going to be a ‘nil point’ event for me.  Historically my lock off strength has far exceeded my ability to bounce moves.  The bounce into a lock and then ratchet through to the next hold is a classic move for me.  This wasn’t the case here.  I couldn’t keep my arms bent.  I had to rely on my head to keep me battling on, willing my body to play ball.  The third problem brought a ray of light.  A bonus hold was obtainable without relying on arm bend. However, I wanted more.  I hit my arms before my second attempt and shouted at them ‘come on arms’, and they responded.  I got a top, and with it 5th place.

 

In Chongqing I was one attempt short of a perfect round.  This is the first time I have topped all the problems in a round of a World Cup.  It felt amazing.  The next round fell a long way short of this leaving me in 19th out of the 20 semi-finalists. However, despite a couple of initial tears, the semi final performance couldn’t quell the feelings from the previous round.  Overall I was happy with what I achieved.

That said, I need to work out what changed from one day to the next.  Was I too relaxed going into the semi-final?

We had time in Chongqing to look around, whilst adjusting to the time zone.  Chongqing is enormous, with a population of around 30 million people.  The roads are are never-ending stream of constantly weaving traffic.  The streets are lined with shops and stalls, with high-rise buildings towering above.  Every inch seemed to be utilised or undergoing regeneration.  Between all this, space is still made for green borders and trees, helping to combat the inevitable smog.  The city sprawls out into the mountains from where the Jialing River joins the Yangtze River.  Our hotel room overlooked the river.  The huge Yangtze gave a feeling of calm, open expanse in contrast to the sky scraping city.

The local food is tasty and spicy.  We went out to a local restaurant and had to call for help to order food as we didn’t know where to start.  With help from the locals, we were coached through the process of adding various meats and vegetables to huge hot pot of boiling spicy broth, before fishing the cooked morsels out with chop sticks/a slotted ladle for eating.  Fun, tasty, messy for us, and at times a little eye watering!  I’m still trying to discover what one of the really tasty vegetables was.

I had a lovely Birthday surprise from the girls, with cake and a ‘made in China’ card (thanks to Shauna, Mina and Alex).  We also each received a beautiful gift of a personalised scroll from the event organisers.  It was an all round great trip.

Chongqing, China (and somewhere, some large distance up above the clouds)

 

Eight of us went on holiday for Easter in Fontainebleau.  I took it easy, keeping the volume of climbing low, as I had to leave early to go to the Millau round of the World Cup.  The weather was cool and dry, with plenty of sunshine.  The friction was strangely low, but it was good to be out on the rock.  I rested quite a bit, ate well and slept well.  I travelled to the south of France on the train - a mode of transport that usually delivers me to my destination feeling pretty good compared to flying.  Strangely, I felt knackered on arrival.

My warm up for the competition felt good, despite the early start (isolation closed at 8am).  The first problem felt like it was going to be a flash, but I repeatedly swung off whilst trying to match the top hold.  For the rest of the problems, I felt like I was trying to climb whilst being twice the weight as usual (akin to swimming through mud).  It was hard.  I was upset afterwards, getting almost my worse result ever – 40th.

Millau, France (thanks to Victoria with Dave’s camera for the namesake shot)

British Team Selection

Yippee, I’ve been selected for the 2013 British Team. 

We had a team selection competition at the Biscuit Factory in London on the 9th of February.  The British Squad battled it out to get in the top four and make the team.  There’s a video from the day here.  We competed in two rounds on the day, with our performance in both rounds being taken into consideration.  We were also assessed by the team specialists as part of the selection day, including the nutritionist, sports psychologist, chiropractor and physiotherapist.

Sorry for not blogging in ages.  I’ve been training and didn’t think I had anything interesting to say!  Then everything got quite ‘epic’ for a while prior to and during team selection…

I said I was going to practice being dynamic, I didn’t.  Well not as much as I should have.  I am practicing now.  I was doing a high volume of climbing in my conditioning phase of training.  Then strong controlled moves to go with my strength phase.  I mixed it up a bit, but not enough to keep my head in the right place for dynamic moves.  I let it get to me that I hadn’t entered my power (dynamic) phase of training prior to selection and fretted about it.  Your head can do a lot of damage to your climbing.

Coupled with my head being in the wrong place, I had managed to tie myself in knots – big solid back and neck knots.  As part of my training I have been doing NIBL (Northern Indoor Bouldering League), local league competitions and the occasional other competition such as Rockover’s ROCfest 2013.  As these comps are used for training, I don’t rest up for them.  

ROCfest was the week before team selection.  Qualification was fun, but hard.  I bashed my thumb on the penultimate qualification problem that I tried.  It hurt but seemed to work, so I battled on.  Excitingly, I qualified in joint second with Mina and Leah.  Unfortunately, I ran out of beans in the final on two relatively jug like holds in a roof on the second problem.  I couldn’t hold on anymore.  This hasn’t happened in a long time.  I’d done quite a lot of training the day before including fingerboarding, swimming speed play, and a gentle social climb.  In hindsight this was definitely too much!  It was frustrating not being able to do moves my head was telling me I could.  I ended up in 5th.

The following morning my thumb was a bruisy brown colour and really swollen.  Arghh. Bad timing with selection so close.  A quick trip to the Minor Injuries Clinic confirmed that it was soft tissue damage.  No broken bones at least. Phew.

Along with my thumb, my arms and legs were feeling tweaky.  I had an arm and leg massage rather than my usual back massage due to this.  Big mistake.  My arms and legs were tweaky because my back had got so knotty.  I didn’t find this out until after I had climbed on selection day.  For me selection was a day where my arms wouldn’t lock, I had no bounce, I was hesitant and felt tired and emotional.  I still wanted to make the grade.  I battled and just about pulled it out the bag.  I was really happy to make the top four, but disappointed to not have a fully functioning attempt at the problems.

I had a dynamic climbing coaching session with Dave Mason a few days after selection.  I had lots of massage too.  What a transformation.  I felt like a butterfly instead of a slow caterpillar!  Dave’s coaching session was good.  I was bouncing around without hesitation and I came away feeling on top of the world.

After the emotional rollercoaster fortnight it was time for a well deserved break.  Snowboarding (a change is as good as a rest).  Sleep, eat, snow, eat, snow, sunshine, eat.

Here’s some photo’s and a video from the last few months.

 

Les Arcs 2013 from Peter Jeffery on Vimeo.

Thanks to Craig Bailey (muscles photo whilst battling at ROCfest), Ellie Howard with John Ellison’s camera (CAC), Aidan Cross, Kate Wilkinson (Stanage Plantation , Bullworker) and Peter Jeffery (snow video).

Winter Rambling

I started my training for the 2013 season at the end of November after an extended rest period.  I had been far too busy doing DIY and wore myself out, so left myself wide open for catching one of the many colds doing the rounds.  It wasn’t worth starting training until this had past, so I put my feet up and had a proper rest for a week.

It was exciting to find that I was fitter than expected when I started doing conditioning exercises.  I’d expected to find the cv work really hard to start with, but it was ok.  I started ‘softly softly’ and then gradually ramped the training up.  I’m trying to listen to my body more this year and not just push through regardless.  I’m doing TRX, free weights and the like at the gym and some cv work such as running.  I’m also doing more climbing than I was this time last year, as it’s important to make sure the movement and flow of climbing isn’t lost.

In each of my climbing sessions I’m trying to ensure that I work on some dynamic movements, even if it’s just in the later stages of my warm-up, before going on to work other things.  If I get used to doing dynamic moves without over thinking about them, without the hesitation, then I will improve.  It’s a head game for me.

On Christmas day we like to get outside on the grit for a bit.  The Christmas day conditions once again do not look promising, but we usually find something that we can play on.  It’ll probably be overhanging with no top out or very big holds tomorrow as the forecast is wet.  We will go out and play regardless before putting our feet up in front of the fire and eating lots and lots.  Christmas Goose, trimmings and chocolate pudding. Nom.

Happy Holidays – Fontainebleau

The comp season is over for 2012.  I was collected from Paris just after watching the women’s boulder final and was in sunny Fontainebleau a short time later.  This is what holidays are made of.  I could have wondered around the forest for a day or so, sat on a rock in the dappled sun taking in the forest for quite a long time… but the temptation of the climbing got the better of me and I just climbed and climbed some more until the following Friday.  It was glorious weather all week.

I thought my skin was going to give out on the second day, but I managed to slow the the pace enough to make it last.  We visited the popular Apremont Ouest and Isatis, along with some beautiful quieter areas such as Gorges de Houx and Reconnaissance. 

I came really close to Alta (7b+/7c) at Isatis, working it with some of the Japanese team that we bumped into.  They have a really good dynamic and the ‘gambas’, big pads, lots of spotters and pointing out of ripples in the slopey top out really helped.  It was the end of the day and I slipped off the slopey top and had to call it quits.  I may have to make this a project and return to it.  Y’a Pas Photo (7a+) was a goer though (see photos below), but took a bit of work as it was reachy.  I ended using a fist jam to get enough reach to come out from the roof.  I still have a hole in my hand, but it was worth it for getting a technique that I am poor at to work.

Where ever we ended up, I had a look around and in the book and chose a couple of problems in the 7’s to try.  It didn’t matter what grade, just something to work at.  The workers often ended up being the other ‘easier’ climbs, especially the 5+’s.  The standing joke of the holiday was that if it we couldn’t climb it then it must be a 5+.

There was one exception to the haphazard problem choosing, we talked about boulders at the campsite and Bleaus Art sounded good.  It was.  Here’s a video.

Bleau's Art from Peter Jeffery on Vimeo.

We also talked about the enormous hedgehog that woke us up trying to steal our food.  Apparently he was called Benson!

I ‘warmed up’ on Duroxmanie (6c) at Cuvier Rempart on one of the days (see photos below).  I scared myself at the top, having got a flash pump (and I just get scared on higher stuff).  I did a LHS sit start, but couldn’t work out the direct sit start.  We moved on to Reconnaissance and I found this nice little problem (Le Petit Poum, 7b, video below).  The sit start felt plausible for me, but I couldn’t connect into the top sequence.

Petit Poum from Peter Jeffery on Vimeo.

We all decided that the orange circuit was the way forward at Apremont Ouest.  It was a day when everything felt hard.  It was fun swinging around on slightly bigger holds, but there were still plenty of surprises.

World Championships 2012– Paris

The World Championships started off quite quietly for us boulderers in a side hall of the enormous Bercy arena.  I had by far the best comp of my 2012 season.  I flashed the first and last problems and stuck a dyno for a 3rd top.  I didn’t work out the other two problems, but it was good to be moving more fluidly and getting things right first time.  Katy and I hung in 10th place in our respective qualification groups and it looked like we both might qualify for the semi-finals.  There were some very strong girls within the unranked. The scores went up up agonisingly slowly.  We both just missed out in 21st and 23rd place overall.  Gutted.

The competition grew.  The crowds for the finals were bigger than any I have ever seen for a climbing event.  The atmosphere was amazing.

We had a big support team for this comp with the managers, chiropractor and nutritionist attending.  This was great.  There was also a good number of team GB supporters that came across to cheer us on.

After the dyno on problem 3 – Image by Nick Clement

The girls – Image by Gill Peet’s phone

Munich 2012

Back in the stunning 40 year old Olympic Park venue for the last round of the Boulder World Cup this year I had high hopes.  I had been mentally building myself up for this comp, as I know that I am strong again now.

My warm up was ok, but I maybe did a couple of problems too many.  I was climbing late as I had lost my world ranking due to not getting in the top 30 so far this year.  It was the first time I had been unranked since gaining a ranking, but I was determined not to let it get me down.

I missed an obvious foot placement on the easier flash problem and dropped the flash (again) on the last move. I didn't think to put foot to hand until after trying lots of other things, falling off and going up again. My knees where bleeding.  I’m not sure how I managed to get them so grazed again.

I’d topped the problem and I moved on, excited to find out what was next.  It was a nice press to a bonus volume.  I couldn't find the right grip to progress to what looked an ok top, so top for me. I tried lots of positions.  I need to play on nasty volumes more.

The third problem was interesting.  It was clearly set as a dyno, but I could see that I could rock up to the penultimate hold from the start hold rather than dyno left.  I should have flashed the bloc having decided on this solution, but was convinced I should get the bonus on the way and proceeded to drop the top.  Second go I went direct to the top.  I was pleased with my no hands wave the first time to go the wrong way to the bonus – it was a fun move.

The fourth problem had a burly start, I missed a foothold and wasted lots of energy trying to smear (school boy error).  I got to the top second go, but failed to match the sloper at the top after an unexpected slip that surprised me (it felt like I could hold it).  I was too tired to go round again and saved my energy for the awkward high step start on the fifth problem that took a few goes.  I’m normally good at high steps, but the correct body position evaded me for some time.  I got bonus ok once I’d got going, but my arms wouldn't work to progress.  The result - 2t4 t 5b10 27th place out of 51 competitors.  A match at the top of the 3rd problem would have put me in 20th and the semi-final :-(  What ifs once again won’t change anything.

I didn’t notice the torrential rain until I’d finished and taken off my Kintaros.  I’d been too focused to realise how muggy and unpleasant it had got.  If I hadn’t noticed then it can’t have factored too much.

I felt like I had made too many errors of judgement, eating into my small reserve of power endurance more than if I had made the right choices.  I know I could have got a better result.  This is the reality of competition climbing, you’ve got to get it right.  I watched back the live feed of the top girls on the problems.  The same thought processes could be seen, the same trying and adjusting and going again.  However, they topped between 1 and 3 boulders more than me.  They had that little bit more savvy and/or strength to finish.

The team did well. All eight of us competing got points (top 30) to put us 6th in the team rankings for both the event and overall in the 2012 World Cup.  Five made it to the semi-final.  One, Stew Watson, made it to the final and came 6th.  Go team GB.

Shauna bravely joined us in Munich on her crutches.  It must have been hard watching all the climbing and not being able to take part and defend her World Cup position.  However, she did a small amount of climbing at the end – onto the podium in third place for the 2012 World Cup Series.  An awesome effort, especially as it was her first full season.

Gill, Katy and Shauna supporting Dave

Stew on his way to the final

Ned and Dave

Return of adidas ROCKSTARS

My Boreal boots, vest and chalk-bag worked hard at ROCKSTARS.  I made it into the second round!

I was invited back to the Adidas Rockstars comp, this time in Stuttgart.  I was feeling strong and well looked after.  They really know how to look after the athletes.  The format is slightly different to the World Cups.  We get to look at the problems from a distance and chat about them with the other competitors.  Despite this, I still made some interesting decisions whilst climbing!  For example, avoiding a volume that would have been much better than the tiny hold I went for and didn’t latch.  I kinda warmed up as I went through the problems, building up to flashing the last.  I climbed the best (in comp) that I have so far this season and did enough to qualify in 12th.

The semi-final didn’t go so well.  I got up to within reach of between the penultimate hold and last holds of 3 out of 4 problems, but didn’t top any of them.  Quite a few competitors only got 3 bonuses, but I had a couple more goes and dropped down to 19th.  It’s very frustrating to get so close so many times, and not get any tops.  There’s some photos below of the climbing and general event (rock band and all).  More can be seen here along with some videos.

After the comp I had a general massage for the climbing muscles, then had my post pleurisy achy ab area checked out by the doctor to see if he could suggest any exercises/treatment to assist recovery.  He reported that the muscles are fused together and needed physio treatment, and also that I should have a course of cranial-sacral therapy; something I have never come across.  Nothing could be done immediately and so he just put me on the electro-magnetic bed for a bit as it is meant to aid recovery.  I’d been on the beds before and could not tell if they had helped.  After 20mins this time I got up and couldn’t stop crying for the rest of the day.  This was unpleasant, unexpected and unexplainable to me.  I was emotional and didn’t know why.  Thankfully the effect wore off by the following morning, just leaving me puffy eyed and weary.

Our very own Rockstar, Mina, climbed very well and crushed each round to make her first international final.  The final was amazing.  Mina climbed well, but an unlucky slip left her one attempt behind the others.  The format meant that she was therefore out of the running after 2 problems, in a very very respectable 6th place.  Alex Puccio went on to win on the super-boulder.

The final continued, with Sean McColl stealing the show.  The use of the word ‘awesome’ to describe his climbing could not be more appropriate.  The video of the final is here and is well worth a watch.