Leaping lurgy

My style of climbing is quite static. I've been working on dynamic moves and have improved but need more practice. At team training we had a simulated competition where although I executed several throws and flicks these were generally the moves I was less successful on during the day.

I planned on having a couple of weeks of leaping practice following the last team training, but the lurgy has got the better of me in the second week. I've been surrounded by people with coughs, colds and sore throats who have broken through my defences. Grr

So I'm stuck at home feeling sorry for myself. Working on nothing but trying to get better ready for the European Championships next week (and answering the odd work query!). There's only so much naff TV I can cope with so I hope I get better soon.

Taking the lead

I'll not be winning any prizes on this front yet. I had a leading session at the Foundry and was pleased with my current stamina and power endurance. There's still plenty of room for improvement, but I was feeling good. It was a mileage session and I didn't get on anything above 7a. I plan to build on this having a lead session or so each month just to keep my hand in.

Sunny South

Hurrah, we found great company in old friends and some lovely weather at the weekend down in Witney near Oxford. It was sunny shorts and t-shirt weather, perfect for a walk along the Thames. We ate lots of good food (sorry to be such gluttons :-0 ) including a substantial amount of salad and quiche with bread from reportedly the 'best bakers'.

On the Sunday we visited the afore mentioned bakers to replenish the bread we had eaten and had a roast beef dinner from the restaurant on the same premises whilst vege Pete went cycling. Mmm roast dinner!

1-4-6

I went to the Climbing Works yesterday with the Foundry 'club'. We were all on different circuits, but climbed socially with ease due to the layout. I've been doing regular extended sessions at the works for several weeks now.

After the social climb I did my first full campus session since the end of the main comp season. I surprised myself by pulling off 1-4-6 leading with my left arm and then with my right after a couple of attempts.

I'm really seeing training advances recently as last week I did a left arm 90 degree lock, again after having not trained specifically to achieve it, but trying it as a measure of where I am at.

Rubicon

Ah, a nice day by the mill pond... almost in the mill pond. Its a bit muddy/pond like under the traverses wall at the moment which led to an amusing landing by Gaz (Whittles). Toes still on the wall, heels in the mud, shoulders on the mat, arched in between trying to keep clean shorts. A flip to get out of this being possibly his best move of the day!

I had a good finger workout, especially on Kudos wall, and bumped into some people I haven't seen for ages. It was good to catch up.

Team and Training

Yippee, I've been selected for the 2009 GB team :-)

I'm busy training at the moment. I'm enjoying the Foundry's new volumes and the Climbing Works circuits and latest comp wall blocs.

I'm not enjoying running. It's my first running with hayfever season whilst its a bit warm outside. If I'd kept up my running more throughout the comp season it may have been easier.

I aim to get onto some real rock in the near future... and visit some other walls (I'm a plastic junkie!).

Injuries - pain without gain

So my pesky shoulder that is now pretty much better... Months and months ago a week before a team training I scratched my back and thought 'ow, my shoulder hurts'. After that it was uncomfortable and hurt a bit when climbing, especially with wider arm positions.

I thought it was just an aggravation from too much training, had it checked and was told I had no tendon damage. I took it easy for a bit and always made sure I warmed up carefully. Trying to be nice to my body. Unfortunately my shoulder continued to niggle from time to time - but hey I could still climb well.

Silly me.

At the worst possible time, having qualified for my first World Cup semi-final, my shoulder said to me 'enough' and completely seized up. I went to see John Ostrovskis after many recommendations. John diagnosed that I had a few shoulder and back muscles that had been in tight knots for a long time and had become underdeveloped. Other muscles were compensating. After some pain for gain work on the muscles my shoulder felt a bit odd and I felt a bit wonky. I was probably wonky before and now straight!

A month down the line having done daily theraband exercises and wide arm press-ups I feel great. My shoulder strength is back, but now without pain.

I saw John twice more during this time as I was doing competitions so couldn't risk a single full treatment as I may not have been able to climb properly.

I now regularly do a suite of theraband exercises and do daily pressups. I was given the advice ages ago that pressups are good for climbers wanting to avoid injury and maintain good posture. I fully believe this is true now.

Therabands are good for warm-ups, keeping your body toned and in balance and doing exercises away from the gym/whilst travelling.

I will now pay more attention to pain. For me if pain only lasts a few days then it's good pain that's making me stronger (unless blood/bruises are involved!). If the pain lasts more than a week or so it may well be that it is not good pain and I may need to get it checked out.

Not rocket science I know, but it would seem that at times wishful thinking gets the better of me.