Eindhoven World Cup

To carry on a theme - YESSSSS, but grr. Eindhoven has been really good for me again.

I qualified in 19th, making a few mistakes but doing enough to get through. That means a clean slate, having it all to do on another day. It feels good.

In the semi-final, the first time I pulled on I was told to get off again by the judge for not starting correctly. I restarted and topped the bloc. I thought I had started correctly the first time but would have to wait to appeal... I had to concentrate on the blocs to come.

On the second bloc I got the bonus first go, then tried lots of different ways but couldn't progress. The score sheet said bonus in 5 attempts. Grrr. I had to wait... try and leave it and concentrate on the task in hand.

I battled on, unable to progress past the last 2 bonuses. One being a problem to read the bloc, the other just being a beast of a bloc. I finished hot and agitated. I felt a little green on my reading skills and expected the opposition to obliterate me, unlike my usual optimism.

My thoughts were unfounded. The blocs were hard.

I questioned the bonus issue. Apparently it had been decided that you not only had to hold the hold, you had to clearly show you could pull on it. The official said that everyone had been judged the same so the decision would stand.

I appealed the start of bloc one. Clearly what I did in my head was different to what I actually did as my appeal failed. So nearly 11th, but pretty darn happy with 15th.

Yes, but then again no

Hurrah.

Back in the UK, feeling great after some sleep. It's good to get some training in, see the folks, etc.

City Bloc in Leeds had a Bloc Party on Saturday. Great fun, good crowd. 40 qualifier problems followed by 3 lovely fingery final blocs. There was good competition with Naomi Buys defending her title, Zoe Ogden and Helen Shilleto all looking strong.

I won. I really needed a good comp after everything. Hurrah. Lots of energy.

Then came Monday, yippee, no work. A bit of training. Then I woke up in the night with a sore throat. It feels exactly the same as a few weeks ago.

Nooooooo

Rest...

Noooooo

A bit of a sore throat... a lot of a sore throat. Tonsils so swollen that the dangly bit in the middle was being pushed sideways by one of them, and I felt awful. Really really bad timing as I had two days of work left to get everything in order before travelling to my next World Cup comps. Then a whole month dedicated to climbing.

The reality was antibiotics for 10 days and feeling dozy most the time.

It was too late to cancel anything and I stood little chance of getting any refunds, so I rested as much as I could then went for it. After all, you recover quickly on antibiotics don't you?

So the comps - disappointingly I finished in the 30's in both Vienna and Vail.

Vienna: I was reportedly looking strong. I felt strong but tired quickly, not helped by the heat.

1. Flash;
2. Awkward hand swap towards the top of the bloc repeatedly;
3. Wave at the top hold, but too pumped to get it;
4. Wave at the top hold, but too pumped to get it after a few attempts battling with the penultimate hold;
5. Completely pooped.

Vail: I enjoyed it, but failed to get any tops in the comp despite pulling quite a few moves I was really pleased with. I made too many little mistakes, but learnt lots.

• Beautiful;
• Bouldered in Boulder (albeit on plastic at The Spot);
• Competed, campussed, cried;
• Bouldered on REAL ROCK at Der Klettergarden, Redcliff;
• Humming birds, hummers, hot-tubs, 'hugeness', h-awesomeness and high altitude;
• ... and just contacted about cloned credit card, grrr.

World Cup 2010 Switzerland

Team GB is looking good kitted out by five finger thing with hoodies, soft cell jackets, t-shirts and comp vests.

We arrived at the Schwanen Pizzeria/Hotel damp from the drizzle to find nobody home. A friendly local helped us out and all was well (apart from the church bells next door chiming every 15mins 24/7!).

I was feeling overly calm when the qualis came around, having watched the lads in the morning. The lasses are typically first. Mina and me were in different start groups. I think I liked the look of my blocs more than hers which is lucky. I flashed the first 3 blocs, 2 of which everyone did. The 5th was a non-starter for me. The 4th was once again another 'so close'. I slipped switching feet for the last move and came 27th overall. If I'd latched the last hold I would have been in the semis. Grr. Next time.

We were fortunate to return home. The pilot (Captain Maverick apparently) was pleased to have got us home an hour before Manchester Airport was due to close because of ash. Awesome timing. I hope Jon got lucky too flying 3 hours later to London...

Skymasters 2010

We went to Birmingham NEC for Skymasters at the Outdoors show again this year. It was a busy event as usual. We had a stand selling the Ltd Edition UKBouldering t-shirts and managed to raise some money for the team. My sister helped - cheers Angie. If anyone wants some t-shirts there's a couple of originals left, and a new design out.

Katy blitzed the Skymasters swinging lead route in a blistering time repeatedly to come second. Go boulderers! I was somewhat slower and came 10th again. I was pleased to complete the route twice - an advancement on last year. I just need to add some speed to my climbing performance.

Plywood Masters '10

Second agaaiin. Doh, I'm not very good at winning. Shauna was climbing really well. We were almost equal in the quali's. I dropped a straight forward bloc with a long last move and she dropped a bloc with a slab style top. I had extra goes on my bloc so was just behind.

The finals didn't split us, apart from me slipping of the start of a bloc by accident. This didn't matter as I couldn't win with all flashes due to qualifying second. Good fun blocs almost all conquered and good competition. To win I just need to do it all first time from start to finish!

Fantastic Fontainebleau

The forecast was for rain. Followed by rain. We had quite a bit, but not that much, so it was a good trip that rose high above expectations. We climbed every day, and typically got rained on just before doing a last move!

I had a play on Holy Moly and Carnage, things I can do all the moves on, but keep failing to put together. I think the main problem is that there's so much to play on that I want to run around and do mileage rather than work anything for more than about 3 goes.

I did however substantially break into the 7's this holiday, especially once the sun (and lizards :-) ) came out on the last couple of days at 95.2 and Isotis. I don't think I'll ever be able to grade anything myself as the grade never seems to consistently reflect how hard something felt.

It felt good to revisit blocs that previously felt desperate and find them much easier - I'm getting stronger. It was also fantastic to to get away from the grind and live the simple 'eat, sleep, climb' lifestyle for a while.