World Championships 2011, Arco

Surrounded by the steep limestone faces on which the competition was originally held and thousands of people have climbed, Arco is an inspiring place.  A castle towers high above the town with narrow cobbled streets housing delights for all.  An ice-cream parlour serving more flavours than you can name also displays photos of the owner with famous climbers.   There’s pizza, pasta and outdoor equipment stores.  The cafe by the church, with the usual array of tables in the street shaded by an awning, is a climbing cafe.  Climbing is everywhere.

Over fifty nations paraded through the streets, lined with photo portraits of previous stars of the competitions and welcoming spectators.  The town celebrates climbing.  We held our flags high and made our way to the competition arena for the opening ceremony.  After pledges to abide by the rules of the Climbing and Paraclimbing World Championships, we were entertained with an artistic display of singing, dancing and acrobatics.  The theme was elements, relating the 3 disciplines of bouldering, lead and speed to fire, air and water with power, grace and flow.

Over 700 competitors were entered between all the disciplines – amazing.  For me the bouldering competition had its ups and downs.  The qualification problems were very doable, but also very droppable.  Competing against almost 70 other girls, we were split into two groups in which we needed a top ten result to proceed to the semi-finals.  This is the biggest field I have competed in.  I flashed 3 problems and dropped 2, with some frustration.  I tied with Alex Puccio and for some time we were in joint 10th place.  Some strong contenders came through and we finished joint 12th in our group, 23rd overall.  Once again, a close one.  I am very pleased to have flashed problems, got points in such a big field and tie with Alex, a multi-finalist in the World Cup series.

Seventh Heaven

At home, with the local crowd, the Sheffield round of the World Cup Series is an amazing, exciting and somewhat scary event!  I had a couple of Canadians staying with me, which helped raise the pre comp anticipation that was slightly missing from last year due to the familiarity of my surroundings.

My warm up went well.  I repeated some familiar problems, covering a variety of climbing styles, and I was catching some practice dynos.  Once again, I started the qualifiers a bit shakily, fumbling around on some volumes, before being faced with a nice thuggy problem that just needed a little finesse to keep my feet on for my first top. 

Then it was double dyno time.  I told myself that I had to do it first time, going with both hands, all out.  I prepared, I jumped, one hand went up…. sigh… but YES, I caught it.  Heel on, climb, climb, climb, don’t drop it.  The top was very droppable, but with some hand swapping and gurning it was done.

I took ages to get going on the fourth problem, before taking a better look at the hold I was rolling over onto.  I decided to pinch lower down near a chip and hand swap into position.  This worked and I quickly gained the penultimate holds.  The top looked a mile away.  One foot was on a steep angled volume, the other on a slippery button.  The coaching in my head was telling me to just jump.  I started to go for it and my foot slipped, but I stayed on, adjusted and jumped.  There was a deafening roar from the crowd – I caught the top hold.  Match, celebrate.

I’d done enough to qualify for the semi-final in 17th place, so 4th out in the semi.  I got the 1st top, annoyed not to get the flash.  I didn’t think to put my foot in the start cup on the second problem, so failed to progress to the bonus.  I just scrabbled around the start moves.  The third problem went 2nd go, after a good think about how to deal with the slopey volume to gain the nice crimp.  I did my signature ‘rock into a lock’ move, finger crawling slowly onto the last hold, desperately inching (possibly millimetre-ing) onto the hold.  Phew.

The fourth problem haunts me a little as I know I could have done it.  I just didn’t think to guppy the bonus.  I didn’t think I’d climbed that well, but am always open minded until I see the scoreboard.  I saw the scoreboard.  I was in first place, and I stayed in the top 6, in final contention, until the last climber climbed the very last problem of the semi-final.  I almost made my first World Cup final.  It was real, I wasn’t dreaming, I’d just come 7th in the World.  Wow.

I was asked ‘What next?  What are you doing tomorrow?’.  The response?  Going to work!

Lol

Baking Barcelona

After Eindhoven it was back to work for 3 days before flying out super early on Thursday morning to Barcelona.  I didn’t think I was going to have time for any maintenance of my never ending back knots, but Global Therapies squeezed me in for a pummel during my lunch break as I was passing through Glossop on the Tuesday.  This was good timing as it meant I could rest for an evening and still fit in a quick climbing session the next day to realign everything (or knot back up a little!).

I spent a day and a half looking around Barcelona.  The architecture was stunning, the sky was blue and it was hot hot hot.  Here’s some photos of the beach/marina areas, around the Olympic stadium and some flora I liked.  Also a really impressive roundabout with associated bus route map – which bus were we meant to be on?

Then it was competition day, indoors with no air-con.  I was concerned about the heat as I have previously been unable to function in very hot conditions.  The lads were suffering, it was getting hotter.  I was red in the face and ridiculously hot, but I ultimately I felt surprisingly ok for competing.  My skin was in good condition and I didn’t need to chalk up as much as I had expected.  However, my comp vest along with everything else was wringing wet.  Pleasant.  I made a few errors, but this time I did enough to make the semi-final.  Yippeeee.  I qualified in 19th position and managed to gain a place in the semi to come 18th, my best result so far this season.

I almost got another top after taking 9 goes to get a dyno, but I thought the top hold was poor and needed to be gained statically.  I was wrong and I could have thrown for it.  I must keep trying to convince myself that if in doubt, I should throw for it.  It can make such a big difference – for example 8 places in this comp.

The GB girlies grouped together, all climbing similarly to place 16th, 17th, 18th and 21st.  Two lads also made the semis (top 20) to put team GB in 6th position. 

I attempted to help with the commentary on the live stream, but I wasn’t sure what to say.  What do people want to hear?  Let me know and I’ll pass it on.

Eindhoven World Cup 2011

There was quite a gap between the Vienna and Eindhoven comps.  This allowed some time to top up on the training and try and maintain form.  The Rockover Climbing Summer ROC Fest helped with this.  It was a warm day in a packed wall, with over 240 competitors battling on 30 qualifier problems.  I qualified 3rd and was pleased to hold on to this position in the final to finish behind Shauna and Mina.

Katy found some excellent apartments in Eindhoven a short walk from the venue.  It’s good to be in an apartment rather than a hotel as you can fix food and drink as you please with a kitchen.  Also, there’s no room invasion each day to have the bed tied in knots that have to be undone before you can get in, and no towels wastefully replaced with clean ones each day despite hanging them up.  Despite being comfy I slept badly the few nights before the comp.  This is annoying as my sleep has generally improved recently.

I had built myself up a bit for this competition as I had placed 15th the last two years.  I felt unstoppable in warm up - catching jumps first time and everything.  I hoped I hadn’t won isolation' to the detriment of the comp!

I felt pretty good whilst competing and I have good endurance at the moment.  I got 2 tops, all the bonuses and some impressive ‘grit stone rash’ forearm grazes from grappling with a big volumes.  I felt that I should have topped at least one more problem and was capable of more, however small errors in position I believe were my downfall.  Positioning a knee bar on top of my hand was more than foolish for example.  I maybe needed more concentration.  My general problem reading was ok - I need to work out the finer details of the problems.  Here’s a few photos including the ‘grit ball’ that needed to be hugged, then sat on and leg clamped to finish with a hand match on a blank patch of wall above.

It's frustrating knowing that I haven't achieved my potential so far this year, mainly due to small errors of judgement.  I was pleased to do enough to get my best result of the season, 26th, but was also disappointed.  I really really want to be making semi-finals as I know I have it in me.  I just needed one more top.

The semi-final and finals were plagued with heavy showers, but they didn’t dampen the spirit of the crowd.  Great Britain’s Dave Barrans thrived once again in the moist conditions to make 6th place in the final – awesome.

World Cups 2011 – Italy, Slovenia, Austria

The first World Cup round took us to Milan, just.  We struggled to find accommodation due to fashion week coinciding with the competition.  We got lucky and found ourselves in the heart of the city, within walking distance of the comp venue, unlike many others who were up to 40km away.  There was so much to see.  Milan is stunning.  The food is also great – I enjoyed some seafood ( and maybe a little bit of ice-cream).

The competition was frustrating for me.  Here’s some photos that look like I made the top, made the dyno, but I didn’t.  I was a fraction off of making each move.  Not a good start to the season.  I did do a few moves I was really pleased with though.

After a slightly shaky start, the Log Dragomer comp in Slovenia was much better.  I climbed well getting a good way on all but one of the problems.  However, I still typically failed to launch into the last moves.  I need to learn how top problems.  I topped one, but I either needed this to be a flash or needed a second top to make the semi-final.  Getting lots of bonuses didn’t help as it’s tops that count first.  I came away feeling confident that I can qualify if I just get it together.  Also, ‘hurrah’, I got points towards my world ranking for being in the top 30.

Slovenia is green, friendly and beautiful.  The competition was very, very well organised and we were looked after from the moment that we stepped out of the baggage hall at the airport.  I recommend a visit.  We went to the top of a tower in the middle of Ljubljana from which reportedly over a third of the country can be seen – mountains in all directions.  Amazing.

The Vienna round of the World Cup (Austria) was a very disappointing comp for me.  I flashed the first problem, then sat around for ages due to a technical fault ahead of me.  I think I lost my concentration or something, as the next two blocs were a nightmare for me.  Towards the end of the 3rd bloc I pulled it together and got my 2nd top on the 6th attempt.  I then couldn’t make a dyno, and fluffed up the last move on a nice thuggish bloc twice that I should have made easily.  Grrr, I slipped into a low place knowing I had been really silly.  I wanted to call time out.

The feeling didn’t last long.  I’m back training hard, as I want to win.  I have goals to get.  Its hard work, but fun trying to get them.

Ben’s Roof (7c+ Raven Tor)

I’m very excited. 

I decided that tonight was a good night to start working Ben’s Roof.  I’d fondled the holds previously.  Keith Sharples had shown me his sequence and I had my usual memory on the beta (forgotten the lot).   I tried ‘Too Hard for Mark Leach’ after warming up on pinches wall for a while.  So the end of the problem was ok. 

After about an hour and a half I’d worked out all the moves, with some helpful suggestions from a strong guy and Pete Jeffery.  The main move that was hit and miss was the toe hook to come round to the end – my foot kept slipping.  I was stunned 3 goes later from the start to be making a second adjustment to the toe hook, making it stick and desperately dragging myself round the corner.  Strong guy (sorry for the lack of name) suggested I get the jug not the crack thankfully and I was grunting to the top.  Happy, happy, happy.

Tea time.

The Great Outdoors

It’s been a hectic period with an amazing stretch of glorious weather in the UK, followed by 5 weekends in 4 destinations in Europe.  I have neglected my blog, opting instead to venture out in to the great unknown (for me) – outdoors.

A normal venture out consists of pottering around in the big outdoor playground climbing everything in sight that looks nice.  No aims to do anything in particular, no working anything, just enjoying the rock.  I’ve previously found that it takes a little time getting used to the rock and you need to take time looking at the view!

I feel that I have had more time recently.  I decided it would be very good for me to start trying some ‘stuff’.  Now I have a little more focus.   Time to pull hard, get out of my comfort zone and work things.  I decided to start actively trying ‘7 and upwards’.  Obviously I’ve mostly started with ‘A’ – I’m nothing if not logical!  But I’ve mainly just tried to do a 7 each day that I’ve been out, picking one near to where we’ve ended up climbing, rather than cherry picking.

It’s fun.  It’s improving my finger strength and technique.  It’s making me stronger.  Here’s the outcome so far this year for the ones that didn’t get away:

Peak District

• Gardoms – Mark’s Roof Left Hand 7a
• Curbar – Trackside 7a
• Raven Tor – Saline Drip 7a flash, Saline Drip sit start 7a+, Weedkiller 7a+ (repeat)

Fontainebleau

• Bois Rond – Bombe Humaine 7a+, Petite Insoutenable 7b (but it might be 6c! don’t quote me on these grades as ‘ the grades they keep a’changing’)
• Canche aux Merciers – La Grande Marche 7a+
• Haute Plaines – Lapin ou Canard 7a
• Franchard Cuisiniere – Bizarre Bizarre 7a, La Voie du Pin assis 6c+/7a (the top out felt hard until I played on some razor crimps then came back to it to crimp the top sloper, and they say the standing start is easier!), Pas Cool 7a
• 95.2 – Indestructible 7a+ (this was a great big rock hug which got my inner thighs!), Le Petite Toit traverse with mantle finish 7a (but guide book is old so may be easier now?)

Why do a lot of the 6’s feel harder in Font?  Here’s a clip of my favourite from the Font trip, Indestructible.

Indestructible 7a+ from Peter Jeffery on Vimeo.