Rock Atrocity

I had my first attempt on Rock Atrocity (Parisella’s Cave, V9) last autumn.  I quickly progressed to getting all but the last move.  I could do it, but not after the rest of the problem.  I found the whole problem quite tiring and clearly needed more endurance.  The central cut loose and adjusting afterwards was sapping my strength.  In hindsight I should have also explored possible alternative ways of doing the last move, as the way I was doing it probably wasn’t the most energy efficient.  I was using a right toe and knee lean/bar.  This resulted in a sore bruised and grazed knee after a few attempts which was quite literally a pain.  It was one of those problems that I knew would gnaw away at me as I was so close.

I eventually returned for a second session last Wednesday evening as I happened to be in the area.  I was a bit concerned about climbing on my own, mainly as I’m such a wuss when climbing outside (and inside at times).  I was armed with 2 mats and there were only two points that needed protection; the mid swing and dropping round to the last holds.  The rest of the moves are unlikely to result in awkward flights towards the ground.

I did a few pull-ups and the mid section of left wall traverse to warm up, then jumped straight on and got to the last move with a pumpy right arm.  Stupid right arm hadn’t even done many moves.  The moves felt easier than last autumn and it wasn’t scary doing the moves without a spot (otherwise I wouldn’t have done them).  I felt secure and there were people around off and on.  Maybe I was stronger.  I’m clearly not carrying any more endurance.  I tried the last move a few times and worked out a better method with a left toe and roll in.  I jumped back on to the beginning way too soon and got to the last move again and repeated this a couple more times.  It was turning into a bit of a nemesis move.  I was impatient and in need of someone else to have a go in between to distract me!

I put my coat on, laid on the mat and chilled out for a while, listening to the dripping onto the mat next to me and the sounds of the coast bouncing into the cave.

I stood up, took a few deep breaths, then did all the moves one after the other.  Yay.


Rock Atrocity - Parisella's Cave from Peter Jeffery on Vimeo.

What next.  I had a look at Lou Ferrino.  I think it may need quite a lot of sessions and some dry weather.  It really doesn’t suit me and will be a big challenge and likely some other problems in between.  Maybe an extension to RA or something somewhere else.

It would have been good to sit on the wall around the west side of the Orme and soak up the atmosphere as the sun set, but it was back to Sheffield for tea for me.

Bloc Party 2012

Training last weekend entailed 3 days climbing based training.  Friday was at the Foundry working steep hard sustained problems.  Saturday was at City Bloc for the Bloc Party competition.  Forty qualifier problems put me in second place behind Leah.  I topped 2 out of 3 of the final blocs to stay in second.  I was close to the other final problem, but couldn’t get past a volume to the last hold.  Leah showed me how it was meant to be done afterwards – so much easier when you know how!  I also found that I wasted attempts on one of the blocs choosing to do an easier move that left my feet in the wrong position to progress.  When I committed to the harder move (that went just fine, despite me thinking it may not) I proceeded to top the problem.  It was a valuable training session with endurance, technical, and mental elements worked on.
Sunday afternoon was spent at the Climbing Works attempting the new pink circuit.  It’s good to keep throwing yourself at lots of different problems sometimes, going for the flash each time, rather than working a bloc.  It can help to physically and mentally get moves correct first time.

I spent the beginning of the week preserving what little skin I had left.  I did some pull-up work on the bar and had a rest day.  By Wednesday I had enough skin back to do a power endurance session at the Foundry (although I was almost side-tracked by the new campus board).  I did 5 sets of 5min on/5min off, having little to no rest between attempts during the on time.  I was typically completing 3.5 problems per set on the elites/level 3, but had to slip in a level 2 at the end of the 3rd and 4th set as I was so pumped.  I tried to pick sustained problems, preferably requiring dynamic moves at times, and mixed up the terrain a little but mostly kept it steep.  I feel so much stronger than I did a fortnight ago.

Inspiration turned up on Thursday in the form of a delivery from Boreal.  Thank you so much.  Another pair of Kintaro climbing shoes as they are so good, along with some approach shoes and a pad.  I was bouncing of the walls with excitement to be honest.

Now go away rain.

Back on track

The discomfort around my ribs is slowly subsiding and I’m juggling recovery with competing.  Building back up, but trying not to do too much too soon.  I went back to Raven Tor last Friday to see how I was on familiar problems.  Pinches wall was ok, some moves required for Ben’s Roof need a little more time/work to get back to.  I tried the start of Rattle and Hump (7a+) for the first time in several years and topped it.  It’s good for the head to be making quite quick progress back towards where I left off.

The Rocfest competition at Rockover, Manchester was busy and hotter than hot.  Thirty qualifier problems put me in 3rd place behind Shauna and Leah and ahead of Naomi, Charlotte and Ellie in the final.  I had a ‘cheaty’ (quote Naomi) global therapies massage between the qualifiers and the final, as my left shoulder and right bicep were complaining.  After a slow start in the final, just managing a double dyno and some other leaps, I got into my stride to top the last 2 boulders and retain 3rd place.  I’m pretty happy with this.

A big thank you to Boreal for sponsoring me with super boots.

Innsbruck 2012

Great Britain did well in Innsbruck with Ned, Shauna and Stewart making the finals. Dave and Mina also gained points to place the team 4^th behind Austria, Russia and France. Shauna came nail-bitingly close to winning, but had to settle for 2^nd.

I felt that I climbed quite well, but I got a disappointing result. I slipped off the easy problem once again (sigh). I got lots of bonuses and was apparently one of the closest to topping the only problem that wasn’t topped. The last problem was just my thing, but I took a few goes to get going, then missed the last hold by a fraction with nothing left in the tank. Pete (partner and main critic!) said my left side looked a bit weak throughout, but I just felt a bit short of the mark. I came 38^th. I felt that I didn’t have enough endurance to finish when it mattered on the last problem to put me in the top 30 and contribute to the team result. The usual ‘what ifs’ featured, but they have to be put aside as nothing can be changed now. I’ve reviewed my performance and am trying to learn from my mistakes. I watched the videos of my attempts and I looked tired and weak!

I need to continue working towards full fitness. I console myself by knowing that I was close to doing ok despite everything. I’m good at battling on the hard problems. I’m bad at getting it right first time and finishing problems. Strength is not always physical. I need to work on my mental weaknesses as well. I need to practice decision making whilst too hot and working hard. As I tire, I waste more energy and just blindly pull towards the next hold. I believe I can do it, but sometimes doubt creeps in. Is it possible that I’m scared of top holds?

Thanks to Sander ter Steege of Bouldercentrum Delfts Bleau for the photo.

Vienna 2012

Shauna crushed again to come 4th – so exciting.

Vienna was hot.  A barmy breeze made it bearable.  It was good to get out of the grey dampness and soak up some vitamin D, but the sudden extreme of temperature was a bit of a shock to my battered system.  Luckily there was quite a bit of time to get used to it as we didn’t climb until the evening.  We hung around all day waiting for our turn to climb.  I was hot and dozy entering isolation, where it was comparatively cool and comfortable.

Warm up felt ok, but it turned out that I just wasn’t with it.  My concentration was shot and I made some rum decisions.  The first problem was steep and just my thing.  I got the bonus first go, just, before swinging off.  It took a few goes to get going again.  I felt like I was climbing through treacle both mentally and physically.  I got pumped unusually quickly.  I think I was trying too hard.  I progressed past the bonus and made a silly choice for a hand position on the next hold and fell off due to poor hand/body position having done the crux of the problem.  Arghh.

I recovered, not by, but on the next problem whilst repeatedly going for a double dyno. 

I touched the bonus, but didn’t latch it.  It was the same story for the next two problems.  My score sheet was looking very sorry for itself.  I kept trying the same thing over and over again, even though it wasn’t working.  Why didn’t I try the other things that I thought of?

Hurrah for the final problem.  A flash on the slopey, strong, tension bloc that was very doable, but also very droppable.

It was progress.  I learnt things.  It was a slightly better result than last week, but it didn’t feel like it.

I was tired, had had my fill of garlic at the local Italian restaurant and was ready to get home to my own bed having been away since the middle of the month.

The plan:  get home,  sleep,  recover more, train more, taper, crush!

Rocky Road

I made it to a World Cup, and managed to climb quite well.  It would have been good to get in the top 30, the semis…. but I’m really pleased with what I managed to do – 35th in Slovenia against a very strong and big field of competitors.  Also, I got to see Shauna’s outstanding performance to get on the podium in 2nd (check out her blog).

My new training regime had been going really well.  Unfortunately I caught a bad cold which led to a chest infection and ultimately pleurisy just when I was meant to be adding the finishing touches to my comp preparation.  I was ill for the whole of March and still have discomfort in my chest.  I had hoped to go to the first World Cup in China, but was not up to making a long haul flight, let alone competing.  I was unable to hang from my arms as it hurt too much.  I could not exert myself without having a coughing fit/breathing trouble.  I felt frustrated after so much successful training – I could feel strength ebbing away.

I went to Fontainebleau for a week instead of going to China.  Rest, relaxation, fresh air and building the climbing back up.

I had two very short sessions on plastic between Font and going out to Slovenia.  I wasn’t sure how well I was climbing, but had made it my goal to be back on track for this comp.  I woke up very early on the day of  the qualifiers to find that I had more illness.  I couldn’t believe it.  I had a very upset tummy (I didn’t manage to keep a main meal inside me the whole time I was in Slovenia).  I don’t know whether it was food poisoning or a bug, I just know it was annoying and very bad timing.  I tried to ignore it and relied on energy gel and isotonic drink to get me through the comp.  I topped two problems and touched, but failed to latch, the penultimate hold on two others.  Not too shoddy!

I’m tired, hungry and resting up for Vienna at my mum and dad’s.  Sorry body.  Fingers crossed for the next round.

Christmas Day Climbing

Hmm, there’s been too much text of late in this blog!  So here’s a video.  We went climbing at Cratcliffe on Christmas Day.

Christmas Day at Cratcliffe from Peter Jeffery on Vimeo.