The Big Weekend

Where to start after such a big weekend. Dive right in I reckon!

GOLD!

Shauna Coxsey won her first gold medal, the first GB female gold medal in bouldering. It was an awe inspiring final. I'm not sure how Shauna held it together so calmly afterwards, especially when the national anthem was played. I think she was maybe already starting to focus on next weekend's World Cup!

We were competing in Grindelwald, Switzerland. A stunning town that nestles below the Eiger. The competition field was the biggest ever (although this record will be beaten come next weekend and the Innsbruck round of the 2014 World Cup series).

Matt Cousins entered his first World Cup ever, and came a solid 49th with 2 problems topped. Dave Barrans, a GB veteran on the World Cup scene, just pipped Matt and was close to gaining the tops required to make the semi-finals. However he 'dropped' a further two problems (dropped = close to topping!).

Michaela, Mina and I all came in the top 30 so gain ranking points. Michaela also 'dropped' a top that would have likely seen her into the semi-finals, but left her in 23rd after an appeal by team NED moved her down from 21st. Mina topped an impressive 4 out of the 5 qualification problems in her group to leave her in 21st due to the number of attempts. So close to the top 20 and semi-final.

I topped the same problems as Michaela, with one additional attempt to leave me in 29th. This may be far from my best result on paper, but I'm really pleased with it as, compared to last season, it's a really good start against a big field with depth of talent. It's also only the second time that I've gained points in the first European comp of the season.

I felt more nervous than usual when leaving the UK, but I busied myself with packing. This included neat little parcels of rice and couscous to save buying more than required when away! We stayed in self catering apartments, which is great when preparing for a comp as we can eat what we need to. Much better than excessive restaurant meals (especially as I'm really bad at stopping eating when I've had enough).

Warming up in isolation was not fun. It was initially, but I quickly overheated in the cosy enclosed boulder room we had to warm up in. I went back to the slightly cooler hall, populated by those competitors yet to warm up, and laid down until I felt a more sensible temperature. I didn't think that a return to the boulder room was a good idea for me, so I finished preparing for the competition on a 6ft high, and similar width, free standing board in the hall with one or two moves at a time.

I was just getting my head set for the competition when the lady calling the competitors into 'holding' asked me if it was hard competing with people so much younger than me (the start list has birth years on it)! I laughed and asked her if she thought I was old, before giving a more considered answer. The competition is getting harder, but not due to my age as yet. It's due to the evolution of the sport.

I felt relaxed in holding and was once again surprised and amused to hear one of Rage Against the Machine's more explicit numbers being played full volume, full content. The same tune that was playing when I started climbing in my first ever World Cup in Brno in 2007. What's the chance of that?

I flashed the first block with a nice shoulder move. I didn't realise how important it was for me to do this until after the comp. I was focused for the next problem - running/stepping right on a slab. I couldn't get enough momentum to latch the bonus. I fought on the next two problems, got another bonus and came close to a third on steep terrain that I couldn't quite get into.

The fifth block was a jump to the left, with a big barn door swing and foot plant for the bonus catch. I didn't see the move for a while on my first go, but came close, then took a further two goes to get it. Two locks on small greasy crimps saw me to the top. Sweet.

Doo be doo, I won't do what you tell me. So much has happened since I last heard that song. I find it motivational! I think I've broken the mould a bit, suffered a bit, enjoyed a lot, and it's allowed me to continue to complete.

Balancing Boldness

The winter league season has been fun.  I did the full Climbing Station league in Loughborough and came 2nd. I found this a really challenging league. It was split into three categories; beginner, intermediate and open. I entered the open. All the problems in each round needed to be treated with respect as there were no ‘ladders’! There were a lot of technical vertical problems and some really bold dynamic moves. I struggled in the last two rounds and just made too many mistakes, coupled with not warming up sufficiently to be moving fluidly on the first few problems. Rooky errors, but all good practice on styles of climbing that I am growing to enjoy more than I used to.

I also competed in Blokfest, located predominantly in the south of the UK. I won the league by one point! The overall league standing were based on points only and did not take into account performance in the ‘finals’ that took place after each round. Michaela Tracy dominated the finals that were carried out in a World Cup format. The finals had super problems that were enjoyable, often flamboyant, and typically needing to be flashed. There was always balancing required, some big round volumes to hug, and big bold moves. All exactly what I wanted to be practicing and I was really happy with some of the moves I pulled off and committed to.

I also partially did the Foundry and Climbing Works leagues in Sheffield, typically finding the Foundry league more suited to my strengths. This stood me in good stead for the Foundry Bouldering Open where I came 3rd behind Shauna Coxsey and Michaela Tracy, with only one attempt on tops splitting us. I messed up the beta on the balance problem by choosing to be bold and bouncy instead of balancing on my first attempt. I had the presence of mind to adjust my approach and get to the top which I was pleased about. Sometimes I think I’m starting to get the hang of this competition climbing and I really loved this comp!

All this practice brought me to the team GB selection day at the end of February. It comprised two rounds of World Cup format competition at the Castle in London. The first round was predominantly balances and insecure holds. Unfortunately I just wasn’t moving well and just kept having poor body positions that inhibited progress. I missed the subtlety. Arggggh. I was really disappointed with myself, but took a deep breath and lots of sustenance on board and steeled myself for the next round.

The second round was more basic and very physical. I particularly enjoyed wrestling with a volume conundrum. I was pleased to perform much better in the afternoon. I feel that I benefitted a lot from the whole day, finding some specific things that I can go away and get to grips with. It was also a hard and good workout. I need more of these to continue to advance my quest to conquer each boulder problem I’m faced with, because that’s my kind of fun!

Today the sun is shining, my thoughts are all about up and coming climbing. I have to rest to allow my body to recover so that it can continue to do what I ask of it. I’m psyched to have been selected to once again represent my country in some World Cups. I’m also looking forward to getting back out on the rock as the weather improves.

Fontainebleau is calling. I think I’m going to go back to Drei Zinnen among other areas. I really enjoyed Bifurcation (7b(+)) last autumn and want to get back on the various variations of Close Contact between balancing and being bold. I’ve been reminiscing and planning. Here’s Bifurcation (we think)

Bifurcation - Drei Zinnen from Peter Jeffery on Vimeo.

Climbing Around

I decided to mix up my training this year, based on my strengths and weaknesses noted throughout the competition season. The plan is to climb a lot more, as my performance on the more technical problems was typically poor. I need to work on the subtleties of beta; the small adjustments of body position and grip that are often the difference between topping a problem or not. I will be working less with free weights and gym based training than I have been the last couple of years.

As part of this plan I have been travelling further afield to climbing walls, trying out new [maybe just to me] walls. I have sought out leagues and competitions as part of my training programme. This allows many training elements to be worked at once:

• climbing in a competition environment
• climbing in unfamiliar surroundings
• reading problems
• flash attempt climbing
• working different styles and techniques
• endurance
• power endurance
• shared experience learning
• having lots of fun climbing

I have been really impressed with the quality of the walls that I have visited so far. Everywhere I’ve been has offered good problems throughout a large range of grades – something for everyone is so important. I’ve found thriving climbing communities every which way I’ve turned, with friendly, motivated people that are a joy to climb with.

‘Ain’t’ climbing great!

I’ve also tried my hand at the tricksy job of setting problems. It is hopefully common knowledge that route setting is a hard job, both physically and with respect to getting problems ‘right’. It was even harder than I expected. Hats off once again to all the route setters out there doing an amazing job. Getting the difficulty of problems correct to suit the required situation is an art.

Thank you for the continual supply of new challenges.

 

ps  I’ve joined twitter at last to help with communication: @MerrickDiane

The End of the Worlds 2013

The last round of the competition in Munich was a fitting finale to the World Cup 2013.  The stunning setting, under the canopy of the 1972 Olympic Games stadium, saved the impressive and animated crowd from a drenching.  The main remaining competition for overall World Cup standings was between Shauna and Alex.  Shauna made it onto the podium in 3rd, behind Alex in 2nd, so Alex took 3rd place overall in the World Cup, and Shauna took 4th.

Dave made the semi-final and Gill and Leah just missed out by a whisker.  I was happier with my performance than of late, but had a couple of goes too many to work out the problems, so came 31st.  I was disappointed to finish the season outside of points again.  My overall ranking was 35th – a fair representation of my results for the season.

The qualification for my group was a hard with respect to the problems set.  To put things in perspective, World Cup winner Anna Stohr only topped 2 of the problems.  I topped one, the last one, in four attempts.  It took that many to get of the ground!  I was pleased to find a somewhat unorthodox solution on my second go, that I should have stuck to on my third go.  Not trusting myself, I tried something else first before committing to the solution that worked for me.  Most importantly I topped the problem, but I should trust my instinct more.

I feel that I may have topped the second problem if I had been more accurate with my footwork sooner.  I got into the groove with no time left on the clock to get to the top.  To get into the groove, a careful balance was required on a large volume.  I only stood on the very edge of the volume on my last attempt, all previous attempts I was just slapping my foot on anywhere.  This adjustment allowed me to progress. Tch, for taking so long remember how to balance, despite trying to practice on the first problem.

Thanks to Jane Newman for the photo of the first qualification problem in Munich.  I did not manage to get my toe on the volume to help me progress…  I enjoyed mantling for an obscene duration before standing on anything though!

The qualification problems in Eindhoven (European Championships), the following weekend, made the Munich ones relative warm-ups.  Four bonuses could have seen me through to the semi-final.  Gill Peet just missed out again in 21st place with four bonuses in a couple of attempts too many.  I gained 3 bonuses, leaving me in 29th.

Eddie Cooper captured this image of me, that sums up my performance – wrong handed and using my knees inappropriately.  I’ve got a knee bar between the volume and the undercut I needed to be holding (but my knee was in the way). It almost worked – so close to a top, yet so far.

I want to do more competitions, but that’s it for this year.

Work Cut Out

It was exciting competing in the British Championships this year, as there is a lot of up and coming talent from the youth category.  More competition is always a good thing as it makes it more of a challenge.  This summer I didn’t manage to rise to the challenge quite as well as I had hoped, coming 9th.  However, I am happy because other people climbed really well and beat me.  I didn’t make the final for the first time since I’ve been competing in the BBC’s.  I thought I’d be upset, but instead I felt inspired to get back into shape for the last World Cup of the season and sort out a few muscle issues I’ve been having.  I’ve got my work cut out.

It’s quite hard training in the heat.  My finger skin seems to like falling off and I’ve discovered that I have a tendency to feel a bit queasy during warm up when it’s hot.  I’m getting used to it, which will help lots as it’s bound to be hot in Munich in a few weeks.

Toronto, Canada and Vail, Colorado

Team GB are in a strong 6th position with only one World Cup 2013 round to go. Those that attend all the rounds will drop their worst result for the final ranking. So this year the best 7 results count, as there are 8 events. Current individual World Cup standings are exciting reading:

Shauna	3rd		Dave	21st
Mina	9th		Ned	37th
Leah	12th		Tom	58th
Diane	34th		James	65th
Michaela	54th		Jon	75th

The competition in Hamilton (Toronto) was my favourite competition of the season with regard to the problems, wall  and competition atmosphere.  The crowd was amazing and it was really nice to be able to sit and watch the rounds I did not compete in, rather than standing for hours! 

It was pretty much the same story again with my climbing; completely messing up the first and most accessible boulder problem. So qualification was very disappointing for me.  I climbed quite well on most of the other problems though, coming tantalisingly close to tops but not getting any. This left me in 25th when I know that I was more than capable of making the semi-final. I want so much more.

I've taken a lot of solace from others this trip. The support and belief shared between friends and fellow competitors buoyed me up when I was feeling low. Also, I'm by no means the only one suffering disappointment and obtaining results that don't in any way reflect capability. We soldier on.  I was told that I had inspired others to compete.  That made me feel pretty good!

Being told that I am an inspiration to others is a huge inspiration to me. It makes me want to train and compete more, to succeed. Knowing that others are putting themselves out there and giving climbing a go, giving competition a go (or another go), because they have been inspired by other climbers is fantastic. It may be that you are teetering on the edge of deciding whether or not to have a go, and just need that little something to make the leap. Be brave, have a go, it's fun, it's challenging, it's rewarding.

Vera from the Netherlands had been suffering the blows of the competitions alongside me this season until it all went right in Toronto. She made the semi-final in fine form, topped all the boulders and narrowly missed out on a place in the final due to number of attempts. She placed ninth and I'm so happy for her.

We took time out to visit Niagara and the falls. A stunning place. I imagined that it would be in the countryside, but the area is actually really built up and touristy. This is something that is only noticeable whilst on route to the falls. Once there, it's all about watching the phenomenal flow of water. Many thanks to Kashca and Keith for looking after us all so well.

 

The day following the Toronto competition we were back on a plane - next stop Denver (except for Ben who had to head home). We hung around the mile high city waiting for Dave to arrive from the UK. Then we hit the road to climb up into the Rocky Mountains for the World Cup in Vail at 8000 ft. We had a couple of short climbing sessions in Vail and soaked up the stunning scenery. We paid Mount Evans (14000 ft) a visit the day before comp day. A good rest day, with a very short walk to gain the summit as the road goes almost all the way. I recommend a visit if you get a chance. The views are spectacular.

I climbed reasonably well in the Vail competition coming 21st. It was my third time at this venue and definitely my best performance, having previously struggled to make the top 30. There were a few things I could have done better, however I feel that the unfortunate slip on the first problem left me most vulnerable. So close to the semi-final...

It is interesting climbing at altitude. Small things such as holding my breath for a short time for a balance left me panting afterwards. I’d feel fine whilst climbing, but then not make moves I'd expect to. This is due to not being able to get sufficient oxygen into my body to keep my muscles performing as the air is thinner than I am used to. Recovery was pretty good though, so I could keep battling on. Most competitors were suffering the same as far as I am aware. It is very unusual to see boulderers puffing, panting and acting as though they have just run a 100m sprint rather than having climbed.

Many thanks to Heiko Wilhelm (Team Austria) for the climbing photo.

Log-Dragomer and Innsbruck World Cups 2013

Two more competitions in two weekends.  The World Cup rounds are coming thick and fast this season.  Team GB are doing really well and are are currently in 6th.  Go Team.

My contribution to this started well in China, but has taken a nose dive since.  I seem to be suffering from a temporary inability to climb the easiest problem in each competition.  I feel the need to take myself back to basics and remind myself how to climb, as it’s becoming not only frustrating, but somewhat embarrassing!

I had a self destructive thought in Log-Dragomer before starting the first problem.  I thought ‘I hope I’m not the first person to drop this bloc’.  I was, and one of the very few not to top it.  I knew I needed to balance, take my time, but I just kept launching at the next hold.  Arghhh. 

I then took my time on the second problem and timed out whilst applying the wrong beta at the top.  I did well on the 3rd problem coming so close to topping the thuggy, steep volumes.  However, I found that I was so pumped that I couldn’t hold on anymore.  I need to keep up my power endurance.  Thankfully the last problem had my name on it and I flashed it to leave me tantalisingly close to points in 31st, despite everything.

The qualification in Innsbruck was different to usual.  Due to the inclement weather causing some of the boulders to become a little damp, we competed on 4 instead of 5 problems.  The difficulty of the problems was increased to ensure that the field was split.  The problems were tough, with most people topping only the first. 

A handful of people, myself included, topped the last problem - a short, but awkward dyno.  I started my final and successful attempt with about 25 seconds left on the clock.  This is not usually enough time for me to complete a problem, but I suddenly found myself on the penultimate hold when the countdown for the last 5 seconds started.  For me it felt like everything was in slow motion with my head calmly telling me what to do …. 5…. ’I still have time do this’…. 4… ‘breath’… 3… ‘now latch the top hold and match’.  I urgently turned to the judge to see her hand up in confirmation.  I’d got the top. Yes, yes, yes.

My emotions were so mixed directly after this, before seeing the results.  Tears filled my eyes, but I could not tell you if they were from relief, disappointment or joy.  I had not topped the first and easiest problem.  If I had I would have been in the semi-final. Instead I had been seconds away from obtaining nothing in the round.  I was kicking myself.  I had to settle for 43rd again.

The final was amazing with Jan Hoyer and Juliane Wurm, both from Germany, taking their first ever World Cup wins in front of the biggest crowd yet.  Inspiration to us all.

Thanks to Eddie Fowke for the good photos!

Log-Dragomer 2nd problem for me, 3rd for Leah.

Innsbruck 2nd problem

Mina doing very well – scoreboard part way through the Innsbruck semi-final.

Innsbruck Podium

Our chariot awaits – prop plane for the first leg home from Innsbruck