I decided to mix up my training this year, based on my strengths and weaknesses noted throughout the competition season. The plan is to climb a lot more, as my performance on the more technical problems was typically poor. I need to work on the subtleties of beta; the small adjustments of body position and grip that are often the difference between topping a problem or not. I will be working less with free weights and gym based training than I have been the last couple of years.
As part of this plan I have been travelling further afield to climbing walls, trying out new [maybe just to me] walls. I have sought out leagues and competitions as part of my training programme. This allows many training elements to be worked at once:
- climbing in a competition environment
- climbing in unfamiliar surroundings
- reading problems
- flash attempt climbing
- working different styles and techniques
- endurance
- power endurance
- shared experience learning
- having lots of fun climbing
I have been really impressed with the quality of the walls that I have visited so far. Everywhere I’ve been has offered good problems throughout a large range of grades – something for everyone is so important. I’ve found thriving climbing communities every which way I’ve turned, with friendly, motivated people that are a joy to climb with.
‘Ain’t’ climbing great!
I’ve also tried my hand at the tricksy job of setting problems. It is hopefully common knowledge that route setting is a hard job, both physically and with respect to getting problems ‘right’. It was even harder than I expected. Hats off once again to all the route setters out there doing an amazing job. Getting the difficulty of problems correct to suit the required situation is an art.
Thank you for the continual supply of new challenges.
ps I’ve joined twitter at last to help with communication: @MerrickDiane
