Winter Leagues

Training started in earnest in October with 3 team training sessions and the Rock Over comp. After having a month of rest I did some general conditioning to let my body know it was time to work again, before working on strength.

The Rock Over comp was good, but came as a bit of a shock to my body as I hadn't done that quantity of climbing for quite a while. My back tied itself in more knots than usual. I suffered a frustrating final, throwing away last moves by being static. I was really enjoying the problems - mainly my sort of thing with little crimps. I ripped 2 holes in my fingers on the last, dyno, problem. Helpful spectators provided some tape and I continued, but missed a knee bar and tiredly missed the moves (maybe a little distracted by the blood oozing from my fingers, sorry about that!). No excuse, time to man up and get fitter, stronger and bouncier.

It's now winter league season again. Fun weekly battles, typically at the end of the working week. I find that I leave my brain behind somewhere in the office. I may be able to pull, but coordinating my limbs and reading the problems is a big ask. It leads to a little frustration at times, but makes me pull harder as my technique goes out the window. This has it's benefits as I'm in a strength training phase at the moment. Pulling hard, locking, staying square helps your strength even if you drop the problem.

In Inssbruck and out

The European Championships took us to the beautiful Tirol area fo Austria - Innsbruck and Imst. I climbed ok at the comp, almost topping 3 blocs, but lacking enough oomph to latch the 3 last holds rather than just tickling them. I came 29th. Not good enough. I've well and truly hit my season peak and dropped out of the other side. I mainly felt like I'd lost my power endurance with regard to completing a bloc, but recovered reasonably well between blocs. My power quickly departs leaving me with a big lock, but not pop.

It was amazing to watch the lead and boulder finals. Truly awesome spectacles at a very well organised comp. Throughout much of the season I've watched Adam Ondre blitz the competition. It was very exciting to see Ramon and Cedric raise their games and come out on top.

We planned to go and sample the local boulders, but the weather got the better of us and we went and had a session on the 'Bacher's training boards' instead. They're quite good (understatement). A big cave, a couple of comp boards, some interesting training aids and more holds than I could shake a hand at. Lots of big awkward slopers for me to grapple with, good training. We also popped into Boulderwelt in Munich for a few hours. Lots of big dynamic moves - very different to the typical UK style.

I'm now back in the UK, rested, and chomping at the bit to regain and improve on my previous form. I'm also climbing outside more to practice more styles.

GC Photography

The locals that I climb with are a talented lot, and that's not just their climbing. They come from all walks of life and climbing brings us together. Thanks to Glen Chappell of Friday Night Climbing and also GC Photography for his photos of the recent Sheffield World Cup at Cliffhanger.

Munich World Cup

Arghh. It was a really good venue, but for me the comp was awful. I was ridiculously tired from the hours I had to do at work before the comp. I couldn't think straight and made two silly mistakes.

1. I decided that it was not a good idea to stand up so that my head was above the top of the wall, even though it would have meant me gaining the top hold of a problem.

2. I missed a gaston.

It is a distinct possibility that this was the difference between making the semis or not. I failed to get points, which is very frustrating as I am capable of so much more. On the up side I am really motivated to get stronger, better, bouncier...

I will have to wait as my body needs time out. It is now time to have a break before training for the 2011 season. I want to just get training, but for now it's best to have some indulgence, catch up with friends and do something other than climb. I might see if my bike wheels still turn.

Sheffield World Cup

It was really strange walking a couple of minutes down the road from my house and telling myself that I was, indeed, about to compete in a World Cup. There were no flights, hotels, trying to find the right food, etc. Just warming up at the Climbing Works on familiar blocs.

On Saturday I felt really good. I topped 4 blocs in 5 goes to qualify in 14th, my best qualification. Also, I hadn't expended much energy as I hadn't had to have too many goes. Despite this, I felt knackered on getting home to rest for the semi-final. I often get some sore muscles, but don't normally feel so physically tired. I thought nothing of it as I was resting as planned, so much so I had a kip.

Sunday started ok. I felt alright as I started to warm up. I felt a bit sluggish as I started to pull harder "almost ready to compete, just getting the muscles firing" I thought.

Then I started the semi-final - I think. I could see what to do, it didn't look too far to the flying saucer from a rolling pop from that 'orrible fin. I didn't pop, roll or gain height, I just climbed onto the fin for some reason and hung there. Arghhh. It continued - pop to the volume from these ok holds, gurn, dangle. Friendly-ish looking lock to the bonus, wilt. Bridge to the bonus, slither.

I came 20th in the World Cup. I should have been pleased, but I was bitterly disappointed because I knew I was capable of so much more. I was capable of getting more than nothing in that round. I wanted to cry but friends, colleagues and acquaintances were congratulating me. Thank you home crowd, for being so good to me.

I've never known such a 'high gravity' day. Time to analyse why and avoid repeats.

Strawberries

Not the boulder problem, real big juicy ones in the garden. So good I had to share.

Eindhoven Shapes and Shadows