Saturday 21 June 2008

World Cup Fiera

Doing a comp after a late night is not a good idea. I figured this in advance, however had booked flights based on the dates originally on the IFSC website that turned out to be wrong.

I got to bed just before 2am and had to be in isolation at 8am. I felt ok. Very glad that I had taken my own breakfast as the hotel one was naff - with sugared croissants, bread and some interesting looking meat on offer. Warming up seemed to go well although small holds felt really small.

We were amused by our gifts in isolation - a rope bag each. Although it will be useful to use just as a bag with a built in groundsheet... I probably should have used it to ward off the weather. It was pouring with rain.

On the first bloc I could see exactly waht to do. For some reason I just wasn't doing it. It wasn't because it was too hard. When I eventually made myself hold onto the part of the hold I intended to the problem felt fairly easy. Unfortunately my foot slipped just as I was reaching ovedr for the bonus. I fell off and had faffed so much that I was out of time.

Thankfully dry sqeaked boots on the second bloc were not required. A dyno to the bonus, followed by a mantle. I leapt for the bonus, then found myself facing the crowd briefly before I realised that I had caught the dyno first time. I quickly got over my surprise and after a couple of experimental movements made the mantle for the top. Hurrah I flashed it.

The next two blocs felt quite hard and both had a similar move in them that my shoulder wasn't up for. I also felt like I was lacking finger power. I gained a bonus.


I thought I had a chance on the last bloc but couldn't quite make a crossover move. Once again I needed to try using a toe instead of a heel. I finished 31st missing out on points by one place and thinking I had a chance until the last person climbed.

At the end of qualification the results board showed a different story though. It stopped updating after Katy was 9th and I was 8th!
After the quali I crashed. All I felt like doing was curling up in a corner and sleeping. I had been running on adrenalin and was actually knackered.

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