Jump to it

We had an excellent start to the power phase of our training at Climb Newcastle. The setting was just what we needed and I found myself doing flicks and pops that I didn't realise that I was capable of. Things such as 'not holding' a hold and flicking to the next is possible! I've just got to go for it.

All the best to Andy and his family for a speedy recovery.

Winter Leagues

Training started in earnest in October with 3 team training sessions and the Rock Over comp. After having a month of rest I did some general conditioning to let my body know it was time to work again, before working on strength.

The Rock Over comp was good, but came as a bit of a shock to my body as I hadn't done that quantity of climbing for quite a while. My back tied itself in more knots than usual. I suffered a frustrating final, throwing away last moves by being static. I was really enjoying the problems - mainly my sort of thing with little crimps. I ripped 2 holes in my fingers on the last, dyno, problem. Helpful spectators provided some tape and I continued, but missed a knee bar and tiredly missed the moves (maybe a little distracted by the blood oozing from my fingers, sorry about that!). No excuse, time to man up and get fitter, stronger and bouncier.

It's now winter league season again. Fun weekly battles, typically at the end of the working week. I find that I leave my brain behind somewhere in the office. I may be able to pull, but coordinating my limbs and reading the problems is a big ask. It leads to a little frustration at times, but makes me pull harder as my technique goes out the window. This has it's benefits as I'm in a strength training phase at the moment. Pulling hard, locking, staying square helps your strength even if you drop the problem.

In Inssbruck and out

The European Championships took us to the beautiful Tirol area fo Austria - Innsbruck and Imst. I climbed ok at the comp, almost topping 3 blocs, but lacking enough oomph to latch the 3 last holds rather than just tickling them. I came 29th. Not good enough. I've well and truly hit my season peak and dropped out of the other side. I mainly felt like I'd lost my power endurance with regard to completing a bloc, but recovered reasonably well between blocs. My power quickly departs leaving me with a big lock, but not pop.

It was amazing to watch the lead and boulder finals. Truly awesome spectacles at a very well organised comp. Throughout much of the season I've watched Adam Ondre blitz the competition. It was very exciting to see Ramon and Cedric raise their games and come out on top.

We planned to go and sample the local boulders, but the weather got the better of us and we went and had a session on the 'Bacher's training boards' instead. They're quite good (understatement). A big cave, a couple of comp boards, some interesting training aids and more holds than I could shake a hand at. Lots of big awkward slopers for me to grapple with, good training. We also popped into Boulderwelt in Munich for a few hours. Lots of big dynamic moves - very different to the typical UK style.

I'm now back in the UK, rested, and chomping at the bit to regain and improve on my previous form. I'm also climbing outside more to practice more styles.

GC Photography

The locals that I climb with are a talented lot, and that's not just their climbing. They come from all walks of life and climbing brings us together. Thanks to Glen Chappell of Friday Night Climbing and also GC Photography for his photos of the recent Sheffield World Cup at Cliffhanger.

Munich World Cup

Arghh. It was a really good venue, but for me the comp was awful. I was ridiculously tired from the hours I had to do at work before the comp. I couldn't think straight and made two silly mistakes.

1. I decided that it was not a good idea to stand up so that my head was above the top of the wall, even though it would have meant me gaining the top hold of a problem.

2. I missed a gaston.

It is a distinct possibility that this was the difference between making the semis or not. I failed to get points, which is very frustrating as I am capable of so much more. On the up side I am really motivated to get stronger, better, bouncier...

I will have to wait as my body needs time out. It is now time to have a break before training for the 2011 season. I want to just get training, but for now it's best to have some indulgence, catch up with friends and do something other than climb. I might see if my bike wheels still turn.

Sheffield World Cup

It was really strange walking a couple of minutes down the road from my house and telling myself that I was, indeed, about to compete in a World Cup. There were no flights, hotels, trying to find the right food, etc. Just warming up at the Climbing Works on familiar blocs.

On Saturday I felt really good. I topped 4 blocs in 5 goes to qualify in 14th, my best qualification. Also, I hadn't expended much energy as I hadn't had to have too many goes. Despite this, I felt knackered on getting home to rest for the semi-final. I often get some sore muscles, but don't normally feel so physically tired. I thought nothing of it as I was resting as planned, so much so I had a kip.

Sunday started ok. I felt alright as I started to warm up. I felt a bit sluggish as I started to pull harder "almost ready to compete, just getting the muscles firing" I thought.

Then I started the semi-final - I think. I could see what to do, it didn't look too far to the flying saucer from a rolling pop from that 'orrible fin. I didn't pop, roll or gain height, I just climbed onto the fin for some reason and hung there. Arghhh. It continued - pop to the volume from these ok holds, gurn, dangle. Friendly-ish looking lock to the bonus, wilt. Bridge to the bonus, slither.

I came 20th in the World Cup. I should have been pleased, but I was bitterly disappointed because I knew I was capable of so much more. I was capable of getting more than nothing in that round. I wanted to cry but friends, colleagues and acquaintances were congratulating me. Thank you home crowd, for being so good to me.

I've never known such a 'high gravity' day. Time to analyse why and avoid repeats.

Strawberries

Not the boulder problem, real big juicy ones in the garden. So good I had to share.

Eindhoven Shapes and Shadows

Eindhoven World Cup

To carry on a theme - YESSSSS, but grr. Eindhoven has been really good for me again.

I qualified in 19th, making a few mistakes but doing enough to get through. That means a clean slate, having it all to do on another day. It feels good.

In the semi-final, the first time I pulled on I was told to get off again by the judge for not starting correctly. I restarted and topped the bloc. I thought I had started correctly the first time but would have to wait to appeal... I had to concentrate on the blocs to come.

On the second bloc I got the bonus first go, then tried lots of different ways but couldn't progress. The score sheet said bonus in 5 attempts. Grrr. I had to wait... try and leave it and concentrate on the task in hand.

I battled on, unable to progress past the last 2 bonuses. One being a problem to read the bloc, the other just being a beast of a bloc. I finished hot and agitated. I felt a little green on my reading skills and expected the opposition to obliterate me, unlike my usual optimism.

My thoughts were unfounded. The blocs were hard.

I questioned the bonus issue. Apparently it had been decided that you not only had to hold the hold, you had to clearly show you could pull on it. The official said that everyone had been judged the same so the decision would stand.

I appealed the start of bloc one. Clearly what I did in my head was different to what I actually did as my appeal failed. So nearly 11th, but pretty darn happy with 15th.

Yes, but then again no

Hurrah.

Back in the UK, feeling great after some sleep. It's good to get some training in, see the folks, etc.

City Bloc in Leeds had a Bloc Party on Saturday. Great fun, good crowd. 40 qualifier problems followed by 3 lovely fingery final blocs. There was good competition with Naomi Buys defending her title, Zoe Ogden and Helen Shilleto all looking strong.

I won. I really needed a good comp after everything. Hurrah. Lots of energy.

Then came Monday, yippee, no work. A bit of training. Then I woke up in the night with a sore throat. It feels exactly the same as a few weeks ago.

Nooooooo

Rest...

Noooooo

A bit of a sore throat... a lot of a sore throat. Tonsils so swollen that the dangly bit in the middle was being pushed sideways by one of them, and I felt awful. Really really bad timing as I had two days of work left to get everything in order before travelling to my next World Cup comps. Then a whole month dedicated to climbing.

The reality was antibiotics for 10 days and feeling dozy most the time.

It was too late to cancel anything and I stood little chance of getting any refunds, so I rested as much as I could then went for it. After all, you recover quickly on antibiotics don't you?

So the comps - disappointingly I finished in the 30's in both Vienna and Vail.

Vienna: I was reportedly looking strong. I felt strong but tired quickly, not helped by the heat.

1. Flash;
2. Awkward hand swap towards the top of the bloc repeatedly;
3. Wave at the top hold, but too pumped to get it;
4. Wave at the top hold, but too pumped to get it after a few attempts battling with the penultimate hold;
5. Completely pooped.

Vail: I enjoyed it, but failed to get any tops in the comp despite pulling quite a few moves I was really pleased with. I made too many little mistakes, but learnt lots.

• Beautiful;
• Bouldered in Boulder (albeit on plastic at The Spot);
• Competed, campussed, cried;
• Bouldered on REAL ROCK at Der Klettergarden, Redcliff;
• Humming birds, hummers, hot-tubs, 'hugeness', h-awesomeness and high altitude;
• ... and just contacted about cloned credit card, grrr.

World Cup 2010 Switzerland

Team GB is looking good kitted out by five finger thing with hoodies, soft cell jackets, t-shirts and comp vests.

We arrived at the Schwanen Pizzeria/Hotel damp from the drizzle to find nobody home. A friendly local helped us out and all was well (apart from the church bells next door chiming every 15mins 24/7!).

I was feeling overly calm when the qualis came around, having watched the lads in the morning. The lasses are typically first. Mina and me were in different start groups. I think I liked the look of my blocs more than hers which is lucky. I flashed the first 3 blocs, 2 of which everyone did. The 5th was a non-starter for me. The 4th was once again another 'so close'. I slipped switching feet for the last move and came 27th overall. If I'd latched the last hold I would have been in the semis. Grr. Next time.

We were fortunate to return home. The pilot (Captain Maverick apparently) was pleased to have got us home an hour before Manchester Airport was due to close because of ash. Awesome timing. I hope Jon got lucky too flying 3 hours later to London...

Skymasters 2010

We went to Birmingham NEC for Skymasters at the Outdoors show again this year. It was a busy event as usual. We had a stand selling the Ltd Edition UKBouldering t-shirts and managed to raise some money for the team. My sister helped - cheers Angie. If anyone wants some t-shirts there's a couple of originals left, and a new design out.

Katy blitzed the Skymasters swinging lead route in a blistering time repeatedly to come second. Go boulderers! I was somewhat slower and came 10th again. I was pleased to complete the route twice - an advancement on last year. I just need to add some speed to my climbing performance.

Plywood Masters '10

Second agaaiin. Doh, I'm not very good at winning. Shauna was climbing really well. We were almost equal in the quali's. I dropped a straight forward bloc with a long last move and she dropped a bloc with a slab style top. I had extra goes on my bloc so was just behind.

The finals didn't split us, apart from me slipping of the start of a bloc by accident. This didn't matter as I couldn't win with all flashes due to qualifying second. Good fun blocs almost all conquered and good competition. To win I just need to do it all first time from start to finish!

Fantastic Fontainebleau

The forecast was for rain. Followed by rain. We had quite a bit, but not that much, so it was a good trip that rose high above expectations. We climbed every day, and typically got rained on just before doing a last move!

I had a play on Holy Moly and Carnage, things I can do all the moves on, but keep failing to put together. I think the main problem is that there's so much to play on that I want to run around and do mileage rather than work anything for more than about 3 goes.

I did however substantially break into the 7's this holiday, especially once the sun (and lizards :-) ) came out on the last couple of days at 95.2 and Isotis. I don't think I'll ever be able to grade anything myself as the grade never seems to consistently reflect how hard something felt.

It felt good to revisit blocs that previously felt desperate and find them much easier - I'm getting stronger. It was also fantastic to to get away from the grind and live the simple 'eat, sleep, climb' lifestyle for a while.

Ten to One

Well, I have some satisfying aches from trying hard at CWIF. The qualifiers were fun but sustained with no blocs really being 'given'. I didn't have a clue how I was climbing and dropped some things I thought I should be able to get. It was good to climb with the other GB Girlies (and Nick) as we all climb quite differently and worked off each other. I felt like my endurance was seeing me through, but I was clearly starting to flag by 14:30 having started at 09.30.

I qualified in 12th place to join the 16 semi-finalists, hurrah; four Brits, the rest from mainland Europe. I went home for a refuel and a rest on the sofa for an hour before going into isolation, which made me feel much better.

The semis were frustrating for me. I felt like I was being a muppet on bloc 1 and flailed around not catching a jump on bloc 2 (maybe as I was stretching out before trying to jump). I was determined to rise above my nil points on bloc 3 and to my joy I was faced with a steep crimpy bloc. I powered through to the bonus, lost my feet, thought that's ok I can campus this move and slipped off - and that was about that. I think I went pop at that point, not managing to get back to the bonus. I'm pretty sure I could do the last bloc, jump and all, but sadly the 5mins rest was not enough to get me through a roof section without getting leaden arms.

I came 10th overall, which I'm pleased with. If I continue to work my power endurance and a couple of other weaker points, maybe I can get to number one!!

CWIF commeth

I'm feeling stronger and fitter than any time before. I just need to manage to avoid the lurgy, something I've not managed for the CWIF the last 2 years. Then I just need to have a good fun day.

I won the Climbing Works league and have been enjoying the new red circuit - all good practice working out the blocs. I also had a really good team training comp simulation recently. It's almost time to start my taper for the comp - a useful comp prep test prior to the World Cup season starting in May.

In between CWIF and May I'll be doing another mini periodised training cycle. That's the plan...

Power Endurance

I've been working hard through the winter. Getting strong, converting strength to power and now working on power endurance. The winter league competitions help with this, but nothing can do more than lots of comp style 5min on/off work. The difference this makes is astounding. I feel like I've broken through to another grade by being able to crank and crank again.

The Foundry has been supplying plenty of cranking, with a really burly set with lots of powerful undercuts this time round. The league was really enjoyable too. I won the elite level, holding off the male competition as well as the female.

It's a shame all the leagues are on Friday's and often on the same dates as making them less attended than usual. I wanted to attend more, but with the weather and overlaps I've mostly just done the local ones in Sheffield (Foundry and Climbing Works) and one in Leeds (City Bloc).

I had a good trip to the Castle in London in December for a SIBL round. They had an amusing 'final' (sorts out any ties) which involved a reachy traverse with a rope swing in the middle. I won the female open, but didn't fair so well on the traverse at the end - not quite making the rope swing. This comp was written up in the latest issue of Psyched the BMC competition climbing newsletter. They've also put in an article about me :-)