Munich 2012

Back in the stunning 40 year old Olympic Park venue for the last round of the Boulder World Cup this year I had high hopes.  I had been mentally building myself up for this comp, as I know that I am strong again now.

My warm up was ok, but I maybe did a couple of problems too many.  I was climbing late as I had lost my world ranking due to not getting in the top 30 so far this year.  It was the first time I had been unranked since gaining a ranking, but I was determined not to let it get me down.

I missed an obvious foot placement on the easier flash problem and dropped the flash (again) on the last move. I didn't think to put foot to hand until after trying lots of other things, falling off and going up again. My knees where bleeding.  I’m not sure how I managed to get them so grazed again.

I’d topped the problem and I moved on, excited to find out what was next.  It was a nice press to a bonus volume.  I couldn't find the right grip to progress to what looked an ok top, so top for me. I tried lots of positions.  I need to play on nasty volumes more.

The third problem was interesting.  It was clearly set as a dyno, but I could see that I could rock up to the penultimate hold from the start hold rather than dyno left.  I should have flashed the bloc having decided on this solution, but was convinced I should get the bonus on the way and proceeded to drop the top.  Second go I went direct to the top.  I was pleased with my no hands wave the first time to go the wrong way to the bonus – it was a fun move.

The fourth problem had a burly start, I missed a foothold and wasted lots of energy trying to smear (school boy error).  I got to the top second go, but failed to match the sloper at the top after an unexpected slip that surprised me (it felt like I could hold it).  I was too tired to go round again and saved my energy for the awkward high step start on the fifth problem that took a few goes.  I’m normally good at high steps, but the correct body position evaded me for some time.  I got bonus ok once I’d got going, but my arms wouldn't work to progress.  The result - 2t4 t 5b10 27th place out of 51 competitors.  A match at the top of the 3rd problem would have put me in 20th and the semi-final :-(  What ifs once again won’t change anything.

I didn’t notice the torrential rain until I’d finished and taken off my Kintaros.  I’d been too focused to realise how muggy and unpleasant it had got.  If I hadn’t noticed then it can’t have factored too much.

I felt like I had made too many errors of judgement, eating into my small reserve of power endurance more than if I had made the right choices.  I know I could have got a better result.  This is the reality of competition climbing, you’ve got to get it right.  I watched back the live feed of the top girls on the problems.  The same thought processes could be seen, the same trying and adjusting and going again.  However, they topped between 1 and 3 boulders more than me.  They had that little bit more savvy and/or strength to finish.

The team did well. All eight of us competing got points (top 30) to put us 6th in the team rankings for both the event and overall in the 2012 World Cup.  Five made it to the semi-final.  One, Stew Watson, made it to the final and came 6th.  Go team GB.

Shauna bravely joined us in Munich on her crutches.  It must have been hard watching all the climbing and not being able to take part and defend her World Cup position.  However, she did a small amount of climbing at the end – onto the podium in third place for the 2012 World Cup Series.  An awesome effort, especially as it was her first full season.

Gill, Katy and Shauna supporting Dave

Stew on his way to the final

Ned and Dave